• On Wisconsin, Part 2 4 August 2023

    “Pat’s Place” at the Spring Valley Inn near Spring Green WI: pure Taliesin

    The drive west from Portage to Spring Green, Wisconsin takes about an hour and a quarter, and on Wednesday the 26th, the louring skies made the passing fields look preternaturally green.

    Lower Wisconsin River Valley farmland

    At noon I reached the Spring Valley Inn, first designed in the early 1990’s by the Taliesin and Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation as a visitor’s center and later purchased by the current owners, John and Patricia Rasmussen, who along with Charles Montooth, apprentice to Wright and member of the Taliesin Associated Architects, turned that visitor’s center into the Inn’s handsome reception area and lounge, constructed the extant 35-room hotel, and in 1994 adding a capacious indoor pool and conference room.  All the furniture and appointments were designed by Taliesin architect James Pfefferkorn and built by local Master Craftsman Rick Kraemer.  For Wright aficionados, this is certainly the RIGHT place to be. 

    Spring Valley Inn
    Even the wall-mounted door stops are pure Frank Lloyd Wright

    After a quick look around, I used the time before check-in to scout out the nearby House on the Rock Resort where we were to have dinner and to locate both the American Players Theatre (APT) and nearby Taliesin East.

    The Visitor Center at Taliesin East . . .
    . . . with a characteristically low-ceiling entrance

    That accomplished, I had a fine lunch at the General Store just off the railroad tracks in Spring Green, a tiny town of some 1500 (even smaller than Madbury’s 1900) where the fire station, bank, and at least one private home were clearly under the FLW influence.

    Spring Green residence
    Spring Green’s BMO Harris Bank

    Once friends Charlotte and Ed arrived at the Inn, we went off to an early dinner at the House on the Rock Resort,

    400 Springs Restaurant at the House on the Rock Resort
    Salmon and a really nice kale risotto

    and then on to a production of Our Town at the APT’s outdoor Hill Theatre.

    Charlotte had never seen Thornton Wilder’s play, and while we all thought this production quite fine, I regret it didn’t come close to the devastating David Cromer production I saw in the 199-seat Barrow Street Theatre in 2009.  In fact, even this clip of that show (http://www.barrowstreettheatre.com/about-us/past-productions/our-town) I found online just a few minutes ago still brings tears to my eyes.  As my late UNH theatre colleague John Edwards once pointed out, theatre space is everything, and in fact, when I later took my husband David to see the Cromer production then playing in Boston, it did not have the same effect on me or the audience.  That night in the West Village just off Washington Square may be the single most powerful performance of anything I have ever seen.  With the house lights up throughout, David Cromer, who both directed and played the Stage Manager, was like the rest of the cast within easy reach of the audience; there was no hiding anyone’s emotion on stage or off.  The young woman sitting in front of me, seemingly on a date with her equally young escort, was embarrassed by her so-visible tears at the end of act two’s wedding, and no one made it dry-eyed through the final act and Emily’s epiphany inspired by revisiting a single seemingly unimportant morning past, its precious evanescence recaptured and for once observed in perspective by Emily and audience alike.  In that production, staged as scripted with minimal set, props, and mimed actions, the curtains at the back of the thrust stage suddenly revealed behind a hitherto unseen proscenium arch a kitchen scene utterly realistically realized by period costumes, lighting, and box set complete with working stove and real bacon sizzling and scenting the theatre air:  a real coup de théâtre.  Just remembering that darling boy playing Emily’s young brother Wally, dead of an appendix burst on a camping trip, wearing his Boy Scout uniform, sitting in his chair/grave among the dead, moves me to tears even now.  No re-living that moment, I guess.

    Even so, I think it a better play than my friends do, and we had a jolly argument about its themes the next morning at breakfast, all of us grumpy from a less than satisfying sleep.  How delightful to disagree without rancor among dear friends!  Charlotte’s objections forced me to formulate a defense of the script I’d never before thought through:  the conversational dialectic at work as it should be.  How I wish political divides could be similarly enlightening!

    American Players Theatre set for OUR TOWN

    After breakfast we headed out to Taliesin East for a two-hour tour led by a very well-informed and appealing docent, Ben, a Wisconsin-born farm boy (he reported he’d done his share of tasseling the corn crop) transplanted to NYC.  A shuttle bus drove us around the Taliesin property, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and Ben led us through both the Hillside Studio and Taliesin itself.

    Hillside Studio at Taliesin East
    Dining room at Hillside Studio, with lighting fixtures designed by Taliesin apprentices

    The tour group was a singularly knowledgeable one, too, which was great:  one young woman was clearly a Wright scholar, and another older woman was coincidentally not only from New Hampshire, but a docent at the Zimmerman home, one of Wright’s Usonian houses now owned by the Currier Museum in Manchester.

    The “abstract forest” of the Hillside drafting studio

    I’d prepared for the tour by reading T. Coraghessan Boyle’s historical novel The Women about the four most important women in FLW’s life, his three wives—Catherine (Kitty) Tobin, Maude Miriam Noel, and Olgivanna Lazovich Milanoff—and his mistress, Mamah Borthwick Cheney, infamously murdered at Taliesin along with her children and four others when servant Julian Carlton set the place on fire in 1914 and dispatched its occupants with an ax as they fled the burning structure.  The rest of my knowledge of FLW came by way of my late husband, architectural historian David Andrew, an authority on FLW’s first employer, the equally renowned Louis “form follows function” Sullivan.  So, this tour was both of great interest to me and somewhat haunted.

    Approach to Taliesin, the “Shining Brow” on the hill
    The hearth at Taliesin, with portrait of FLW’s mother, Anna Lloyd Jones Wright
    A gift from Louis Sullivan, a tile like a “delirious tossed salad” (Andrew)
    Living room table
    Taliesin corridor
    Charlotte in the garden
    Music room–with music stand impossible to use
    The last Mrs. Wright’s bedroom

    My conclusion:  FLW was indeed a talented visionary, as well as a supreme narcissist; standing only 5’6,” the architect placed many ceilings at Taliesin at so low an elevation that even I (5’8”) felt compelled to stoop.  My David always said “his mother loved him,” and that set him up to believe himself a Great Man well before he established for himself such a reputation.  “Early in life,” he said, “I had to choose between honest arrogance and hypocritical humility.  I chose the former and have seen no reason to change.” 

    FLW’s signature tile at Taliesin

    David and I once spent the night in upstate New York’s 19th-century experimental utopian community, Oneida, where John Humphrey Noyes (1811-1886) and his followers pursued his radical notions of perfectionism, including free love, then regarded with the same suspicion and disdain the local Spring Green populace later felt for the adulterous relationship of Mamah Cheney  (1869-1914) and Frank Lloyd Wright (1967-1959).  The structures we saw on the tour dated from 1902, 1911, 1932, and 1952, so my experience of Taliesin and Boyle’s well-researched novel together brought to mind not only Oneida and the social experiments of the early twentieth-century, but also the 1960’s and our own current culture wars.  Historical perspective:  another perk of travel.

    Wright’s beautiful view

    After a refreshing swim in the Inn’s lovely pool while my friends explored Spring Green’s amenities, we all returned to the American Players Theatre with a pre-performance picnic (from Wander Provisions in Spring Green) to enjoy on theatre grounds amply furnished with sheltered picnic tables and piped-in classical music.

    The pool at the Spring Valley Inn
    Charlotte happy with her salad from Wander Provisions
    Picnic at the APT with Ed

    The Merry Wives of Windsor, one Shakespeare play I’d never seen played (and, frankly, didn’t think much of) was brilliantly, hilariously produced.  How the actors in their elaborate costumes (Falstaff in a fat suit, no doubt) kept from fainting as they bustled about in the 93o heat, I can’t imagine, but the play was fantastic, rollicking fun:  just the ticket after the beautiful, sober modernity of Taliesin.

    Next morning my friends headed back to Iowa City and I drove east to Milwaukee, with a brief stop in Madison to visit the U of Wisconsin’s fine Chazen art museum and remark on the symbolic layout alumnus Ed had made clear to me:  The Capitol on unimpeded axis with the central University campus:  learning and government on equal footing.  Would that balancing act still obtained across our nation.

    Chazen Museum of Art at the University of Wisconsin-Madison
    Wall hanging by El Anatsui (Danu, 2006), made of aluminum cans and copper wire
    Capitol connection with Wisconsin campus

    A big storm arrived at my airport Hyatt shortly after I’d cozily settled in there, and the next morning my flight took off right on time, delivered me to Orlando for a layover long enough to have a leisurely dinner and finish the Boyle novel before finally arriving back in Manchester around 1 am Sunday morning.

    MKE airport in the rain from the Airport Hyatt

    As I finally climbed gratefully into my own Madbury bed, I thought how fortunate my travels had been, and how lucky I am to have such family and friends.  As always after a journey away, I recognized that truly there’s no place like home.

    The Wisconsin River, seen from the Taliesin gift shop, just keeps rollin’ along

  • On Wisconsin, Part 1, 2 August 2023

    Wisconsin storage for those amber waves of grain

    I returned from my Wisconsin visit to family and friends very early last Sunday morning after a too-long layover in Orlando (consider the carbon footprint of getting from Milwaukee to Manchester NH via Orlando!) and a flight delayed by thunderstorms up and down the east coast.  When I woke later that morning and parted the bedroom curtains to peer out on the deck below, I found our resident groundhog sitting in my Adirondack chair enjoying the view, lacking only a cigar to complete the anthropomorphic vision of nature reclaiming her own.  I’d been gone only a week, but clearly the groundhog had already staked his proprietary claim.

    I was congratulating myself on once again successfully negotiating the challenges of solo travel, making only minor mistakes. Mistake #1: I lost a corkscrew to TSA at the Milwaukee airport, having forgotten I had zipped it into one of my Baggallini’s pockets as a possible necessity for the previous Thursday’s pre-theatre picnic at the American Players Theatre in Spring Green.  Rendered superfluous by a screw-top, this potential weapon unfortunately remained in my purse, and proved hard to find:  it took three passes through the x-ray machine and two agents to locate exactly in which of the bag’s many pockets it was hiding.  (Unsurprising, since I have had similar issues with this designated travel purse.)  Mistake #2:   I temporarily confused the Madison parking garage ticket in my wallet with the Manchester parking garage ticket; at that point, I’d been traveling for fourteen hours and it was 1 AM, so I give myself a pass on that one, too.  It wasn’t till the next day when I read the emailed Dollar rental car receipt that I spied the more expensive error:  I’d forgotten to gas up the Nissan before I returned it, a pricey error at $10.66/gallon.  Oops.  Well, it’s only money.

    All in all, I grant myself a passing grade—an evaluative process I never thought necessary before I turned 70.  Now, I’m constantly assessing slippage, both cognitive and physical (and the combination of both, as in paying no attention while walking downstairs wearing clogs and carrying a laundry basket, mistaking the penultimate for the ultimate step and consequently breaking an ankle).  The takeaway:  I won’t make THAT (fill in most recent) mistake again.

    The Saddle Ridge Marina, Portage WI

    On my last year’s visit to Reed and Jan in Portage WI I’d not rented a car, but relied instead on the largesse of my nephew Rob’s driving service.  Maybe because I chatting more than observing last year, I was at the time less impressed by the expansive beauty of Wisconsin’s farmland, so very different from New Hampshire vistas narrowed by road-encroaching forests.

    Wide-open space and big sky

    A year’s passing did not, however, lessen my in-laws’ generous hospitality:  Reed and Jan’s welcome was warm as ever, and visiting niece and nephew Pam and Rob made conditions ripe for family stories and a wealth of dad jokes, one of Reed’s specialties.  I was happy to have one to contribute:  the Wisconsin license plate slogan that didn’t make it to the plate:  “Smell My Dairy Air.”

    A slogan that DID make it to TM
    Jan’s Rudbeckia on the dining table

    Staying in someone’s home for three days (testing the Ben Franklin-suggested limit comparing fish with guests) means 24/7 proximity that can, in odd moments, produce surprising results.  On this visit I was particularly aware of tech-enhanced connections; we were all often on our devices, and just as often sharing what we found there.

    Reed, Jan, and Pam

    Rob, entertaining us with top ten pop hits from 1967 played on his phone, inspired me to (shamelessly) sing along, rather amazing myself that I effortlessly remembered the words to every single song, definitely revealing my vintage. Best of all, nephew Rob and his nephew in New Zealand, Rudyard, respectively turned 56 and 38 at the same time—despite their birthdays being one day apart. Thank you, international date line.

    Rudyard’s birthday cake, baked by his kids: M&Ms on top and
    Skittles in the middle

    The magic of a video call linking time zones meant that I could also sing happy birthday to my great nephew in New Zealand—and realize that I was, in fact, Great Aunt Georgy.  How august! (And how reminiscent of Aunt Augusta, Lady Bracknell of Wilde’s inimitable Importance of Being Earnest).  That group chat was great fun.  Cleaning up dishes with sister-in-law Jan and niece Pam introduced me to the wonders of Norwex cleaning cloths, and all the family persuaded me, decidedly NOT a card player, to learn and enjoy a couple games of Sequence.  We made a pilgrimage to the Sassy Cow for signature tomato soup, grilled cheese, and ice cream.

    Fellow ice cream aficionada at the Sassy Cow

    Jan’s flowers delighted, . . .

    Jan’s zinnias, a personal favorite

    . . . the Sandhill cranes made their customarily terrifying Velociraptor calls,

    No mistaking this crane’s dinosaur provenance

    . . . and I got a ride in Rob’s hot Mustang—as well as an inscribed copy of his book, A Life of Service to the United States of America, an oral history of his foreign service assignments in Mexico, Russia, Costa Rica, and Sweden.

    Andrew hot wheels: no cooked food allowed inside to preserve
    that new car smell

    I first met Rob in London in 1991 when he was on leave from his combat tour in the Gulf War, and since his retirement from diplomatic service, he’s been teaching foreign policy at the University of Oklahoma.  Getting a briefing from Rob on China, Russia, and the war in Ukraine over breakfast with the family made my last morning in Portage especially memorable.  I was happy to hear Rob’s take on Volodymyr Zelenskyy:  “A cross between George Washington and Winston Churchill.” 

    My Andrew family, Rob, Reed, Jan, and Pam
    Special departure breakfast prepared by Brother Reed

    Well loved and well fed, I departed Portage and set out for Spring Green, a reunion with dear friends from my days at Centre College, the American Players Theatre, and Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin East. More adventures to come!

    John Deere as play structure: sweet!

  • Midsummer Revelations and Recommendations, 21 July 2023

    Proto Gazpacho

    Truly “summer’s lease hath all too short a date.” **  So, as July speeds by, I tap out a list of things I’ve really appreciated of late, hoping that you, Dear Readers, might also enjoy and/or find useful.

    • Julia Moskin’s “Best Gazpacho” (https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017577-best-gazpacho).  Like most everywhere this summer, New Hampshire has been HOT, but this recipe makes a perfect cold, savory, light supper (and goes especially well with an open-faced BLT).  Tip:  Julia says to strain the soup once blended.  Don’t!  Throwing away any bit of this tasty treat is a mistake, and together a blender and olive oil produce a perfectly emulsified, almost fluffy soup sans straining.
    Puddle reflections of a summer’s day (photo by Heather Cox Richardson)
    • Planting in the rain.  We’ve had soooo much rain that I was having trouble finding the right day to plant two new perennials, a shasta daisy and another bee balm.  Then I went ahead and planted in a pretty steady rain.  Result:  I stayed cool, got no bug bites, and the new plants settled in beautifully. 
    (Photo from the Canadian Wildlife Federation)
    • Bats!  I love their swooping at dusk.  When late the other afternoon I spotted one little fellow napping upside down while clinging to the apse stucco behind the eastern most Alberta Spruce, I feared he might be ill.  But when I checked the next morning, s/he was gone, I’m pretty sure of his/her own accord.  Yay!  Go bats!
    Magpie nest made of anti-bird spikes (photo by Auke-Florian Hiemstra for NATURALIS)
    • Birds!  Not only do I dine with my bird feeders in my direct line of sight (the birds eat when I eat; following two bear incursions this summer, I no longer leave the feeders out unsupervised), but I cheer the clever birds (crows and magpies, perhaps others?) making excellent and ironic use of anti-bird spikes to build their nests!  You go, Birds!
    • David Copperfield.  I think I’d not read Dickens’s most autobiographical novel since high school—maybe earlier.  When I zoomed through it preparing for discussions of Barbara Kingsolver’s Demon Copperhead, I wept, I laughed out loud, I marveled at the Master’s sui generis art.  Best read of the summer so far.
    • Daylilies.  Thriving on our plentiful rainfall, they have never been more abundantly beautiful.
    • Extended Fourth of July celebrations.  Eat picnic food all through summer—especially deviled eggs.  Best way to hard boil:  steam for 15 minutes and plunge into a bowl of ice water for effortless peeling.
    • The Daily Stoic:  366 Meditations on Wisdom, Perseverance, and the Art of Living by Ryan Holiday and Stephen Hanselman:  very practical life hacks culled from the Stoic philosophers offered in bite-sized bits.  Reading one a day I find a very useful antidote to the diurnal dose of world-wide Bad News.
    Lilies like this also lift the spirits.
    • “The Paradox of Pleasure” episode of Shankar Vedantam’s science podcast, Hidden Brain, featuring Dr. Anna Lembke’s research on addiction.  Our brains, evolved to deploy dopamine to motivate our seeking pleasure and avoiding pain, can’t cope with the fire hose of easily attained pleasures available in contemporary life.  Where once you had to search for and then climb a tree to be rewarded with a tasty date, now you can order a crate of dates for front-door delivery at the click of a button.  Check out Lembke’s explanation for why the rates of depression, anxiety, and suicide are highest in the richest nations.
    Rain, heat, and high humidity make my hibiscus believe it has returned to my home state of Florida: no dopamine problem here.
    • Just do it.  Nike nailed the best advice for tackling really unpleasant tasks (scraping scale-infested amaryllis leaves to give the plants a chance, digging soap scum crud from the corners of a sliding shower door, sorting years of accumulated stuff, weeding the overgrown flower bed, etc.)  The sense of virtuous accomplishment is sooo worth the yuck.
    The Clematis are happy, too.
    • Always have something to look forward to.  Like the next images of cosmic splendor arriving from the James Webb Space Telescope—absolute proof that there IS at least some intelligent life here on Earth (the evening news to the contrary).  Thank you, NASA, the European Space Agency, and the Canadian Space Agency for showing us both previously unimaginable beauty out there, AND the astounding feats humans working hard together can accomplish.
    Rho Ophiuchi Cloud Complex, courtesy of JWST. Rather puts things in perspective, don’t it?

    CARPE DIEM!

    **Sonnet 18, by William Shakespeare.  Worth memorizing.

  • Eight Days, Two Picnics, and One Fourth of July 2023

    Fireworks display at Atomic Fireworks in Seabrook NH

    Can it be the heat stroke I nearly gave myself when I mowed the grass last steamy Thursday that accounts for the dreams I’ve had in the past couple of days?  Yesterday brought a classic anxiety dream:  being unprepared for a lecture (hadn’t even read the book yet) and then trying to get to class in a version of the Norton Center at Centre College, but in an elevator that impossibly traveled both vertically and—horizontally??  This morning it was sharing a bathtub and shower with Vladimir Putin and his wife (??)—all three of us naked—with diplomatically averted eyes, and then having trouble deciding which jewelry to wear with my formal dress as I stood in my messy freshman dorm room—at summer camp?  I had risked mowing in the heat because the frequency of thunderstorms this summer has meant very limited windows of opportunity to cut grass threatening to grow past the capacity of my EGO mower.   (LOVE that brand!)  But it was near 90, both in temperature and humidity, taxing me AND the EGO’s lithium battery.  I won’t do that again, risking climate-changed weather consequences that have already taken a toll on the peach orchards of New Hampshire.  No fruit this year due to a forward spring followed by a mid-May frost that nipped the crop in the bud. 

    The time is, as Hamlet observed, out of joint.

    But my hibiscus, outside on the deck for the summer, is flourishing in New Hampshire weather masking as Florida.

    Making the most of time between storms, I’ve quite enjoyed July thus far with three outdoor fêtes within the past 8 days.  On Saturday, 1 July, I rode south to Newton, MA with Mara and Peter, relishing the Schadenfreude inspired by the traffic barely creeping north on I-95 in a tailback that stretched all the way to the Whittier Memorial Bridge over the Merrimack at Newburyport.  As we approached the Bunker Hill Memorial Bridge, the Boston skyline was obscured by Canadian wood smoke, but that seemed to lift by the time we arrived in Newton.

    This reunion of UNH colleagues in the art department, plus spouses and daughter, was made all the more delightful by the patio setting under a canopy of still-spring-green leaves.  A superior evening, both in repast and company.  (I find my diction growing more Dickensian as I reread David Copperfield in preparation for Barbara Kingsolver’s Demon Copperhead.)

    Mara and Sis lay out our feast
    Maja’s gorgeous appetizer platter

    My own on-the-Fourth party was also a reunion of art department colleagues, plus a couple of my newer acquaintance.  The morning’s rain stopped and the sun broke through just as the first guest arrived, allowing for appetizers on the first floor west-facing deck while I grilled burgers on the ground floor driveway to the east.

    Deviled eggs transported to the deck via dumb waiter when the sun came out

    After the main course, the five guests plus my great neighbors Anne and young Leo adjourned to the deck to view my little fireworks display.

    Grand finale (photo by Julee Holcombe)

    That display provided an unexpected lagniappe of drama when a firework new to me—a ladybug—went airborne from its whirling, shrieking ground display and careened toward the guests up on the deck.  No harm done, though, thanks to the maternal instinct of the supple Anne, who performed a wild duck and roll to protect her 5-year-old son.  Mother and child returned home unscathed, and the rest of us went back to table for Ritz Carlton lemon pound cake with rhubarb sauce and more affable talk, this time including me, having sweatily completed my three-ring-circus hospitality (much assisted by guests who loaded the dishwasher while I was making sure no flaming ladybug was going to light the apse roof on fire).  All hail such friends—and the obligingly timed rain that bookended the celebration.

    Georgeann and Shiao-Ping at evening’s end (photo by Julee Holcombe)

    Then yesterday, 8 July, my friend Vicky and I made our way to Great Island Common on New Castle for a small evening picnic at the beach.  On arrival, a thick, very wet fog threatened to douse that plan.  But a brief stroll along the beach dispelled our fears, and the water I waded was warmer than I’d ever experienced, even as the fog made the nearby lighthouse invisible.  A large diesel engine thrummed from an equally invisible vessel perhaps making its way to the mouth of the Piscataqua as a lone cormorant played the Loch Ness Monster in the mysterious murk and the foghorn made its periodic moan.  Very Eugene O’Neill, all this salty, thick air.  Quite enchanting.  And all the more so when two dear friends unexpectedly emerged through the mist, Carol and Barry, who was making his outdoor debut following ankle surgery, carefully circling the Common with his afflicted foot in a boot resting on a rather high tech scooter.  A happy meeting this; serendipitously lovely conversation ensued before Vicky and I settled in at picnic table with our lobster rolls, watermelon salad, and citronella candle as lone picnikers, soggy but undaunted, enjoying the limited, dreamy ocean view.

    Vicky and the soggy, foggy Great Island picnic
    Second lobster roll of the season, served with watermelon salad and fog

    I’ve had so many memorable Fourths.  Three from the past stand out.  (Cue Joni Mitchell:  “We can’t return, we can only look behind from where we came . . . .”)

    On our first Fourth of July together, 1991 in England, David rented a car and drove us to visit Hammerwood Lodge near East Grinstead in West Sussex, one of the first houses in England to be built in the Greek Revival style and in 1792, Benjamin Latrobe’s first independent work.  America’s first professional architect, Latrobe would go on to modify William Thornton’s original design for the U. S. Capitol, so Hammerwood was an appropriate July Fourth destination for us Americans abroad, so recently having reversed Latrobe’s transatlantic passage.  Deploying his signature charm in such circumstances, David, dressed in jacket and tie and armed with Nikon, was shooting slides of the Hammerwood façade to show in his classes, UNH business card at the ready.  His gradual approach first piqued the interest of and, on introduction to my dear architectural historian professor, so flattered the Lodge’s owner, David Pinnegar (a physicist with an Oxbridge stammer and a wonderfully enthusiastic nature–he literally jumped for joy), that he invited us inside to look and then take tea on the terrace with him and his mother. 

    Prof. Andrew takes tea at Hammerwood Lodge, 4 July 1991
    Two Davids, Pinnegar, who rescued and restored Hammerwood, and Andrew, who especially admired its severe Doric columns

    That July Fourth spent in Latrobe’s country house would ten years later help shape the home we designed for ourselves:  from Hammerwood to Gnawwood.

    Hammerwood Lodge, Latrobe, 1792
    Gnawwood, Andrew/Murphy/Schoonmaker, 2001

    And then there was July 4, 1976, when my beloved dad George drove me and my cat Ariel from the Murphy home in St. Petersburg to New Orleans to help me find an apartment for my first year of graduate school at Tulane.  That Bicentennial Fourth was memorably difficult:  first, there was car trouble that meant a layover at an Alabama garage while my cat, not a good traveler, yowled from underneath the front seat.  The repair took so long that we could not continue on to New Orleans as planned, but because it was the holiday weekend, we went from motel to motel finding there was no room in any inn.  Finally, one place in Mobile had one room left—furnished with only a Murphy bed!  That sufficed, and the next day we drove on to Marrero, where accommodations were less dear across the Mississippi from the Crescent City. My dad’s migraine lifted, and I found my first New Orleans apartment at the end of the St. Charles streetcar line at the intersection of Carrollton and Claiborne:  11 Fountainbleau drive.

    St. Charles Streetcar (photo by Cheryl Gerber)

    When my dad later saw his credit card bill and what that Murphy bed room had cost, always obliging George wrote the motel manager a letter saying he would be glad to pay a reasonable sum for our stay, but would not play so inflated a premium for a very short night in a shared bed cantilevered to a wall.  That manager subsequently comped our Fourth of July room.  And my dad never had another migraine.

    But my most iconic Fourth memory comes from furthest back at one of my Aunt Mart and Uncle Kenny Senseman’s annual celebrations at their home on Waving Willow in Kettering, a suburb of Dayton, Ohio, my parents’ hometown and where at the time (~1960) my Murphy grandparents still lived on Springbrook Boulevard.  The Senseman home’s terraced back yard was where most of my childhood July Fourths were celebrated, partly because we visited the Murphys in Ohio each summer, partly because my elegant Aunt Martha was a brilliant cook, and partly because that back yard was so close to the country club with its stupendous annual fireworks display.  My cousins Beverly and Barbara, Bevy and Bobbie, were respectively four and two years older than I, and because Aunt Mart was a beautician, these Big Girls were always turned out and coiffed in the latest fashion.  Fashion was not my own mother Virginia’s forte:  she was a country girl who lived in an un-airconditioned Florida home, and a bit of a bohemian, an early adopter of jeans and strapless bandeau tops.  So my Aunt Mart and, especially, the Big Girls, were my idols.  I felt very smart indeed when I got to wear their glamorous hand-me-down dresses.

    On this particular Fourth, I was perhaps 8, so they were 10 and 12.  At the fireworks that night, the country club announcer made clear the plan to fire off a special rocket with a parachute from which a prize, or at least a coupon for a prize, was suspended.  The Big Girls decided we three were Going For That Prize, and so when the rocket went up, they grabbed me by the hands, one on either side, and we took off, racing through the dark over the hills, dales, and wooded hazards of the golf course.  My feet barely touched ground.   I was flying through the night as the rocket’s red glare intermittently lighted our way, and I was With The Big Girls.  We didn’t find the prize that night, but no matter.  The thrill has never left me.

    Photo by Roven Images on Unsplash

    So, what to me does the Fourth of July mean?  Yes, some sad revery over climate change and the state of our republic, so far from its brave declaration of independence:  in Paul Simon’s words, “You can’t be forever blessed.”  But mostly, every Fourth is a posy of memories, a synoptic table of celebrations over so many years, in my mind at least imposing a comforting order on time passing.

    Oh, Beautiful!

  • A glooming peace this morning with it brings / 26 Jan 2023

    Post-plow mess in Madbury (trekking pole 4’3″ long)

    I woke yesterday to what had become the unaccustomed sound of silence from our propane-guzzling generator, which had been running non-stop from 4-something am Monday morning until 2 .07 am Wednesday morning, powering enough circuits to keep heat on and water flowing throughout the most recent if long delayed snow storm of the season.   How very unfortunate that power and other lines were never buried when first installed in heavily forested New Hampshire!  For a time in the last couple of days, I’ve been without landline, cell service, or internet, cut off from all the “modern conveniences” save for the most helpful if noisy and stinky generator which also kept my groceries from spoiling—unlike the local Market Basket, where after more than 48 hours without refrigeration, perishables could no longer be sold.  I shudder to think of all the good food that has gone to waste.

    The Year of the Rabbit had gotten off to a fine start on Saturday, 21 January, the lunar new year’s eve when I once again had the privilege of enjoying a dumpling dinner and lively conversation with long-time friends Shiao-Ping and Brian and newer acquaintances Fran and Phil.

    Shiao-Ping and Brian make dumplings for new year’s dinner
    “Soup of the evening, beautiful Soup!”

    Then on Sunday, I was equally privileged to attend the Emerson Quartet’s final performance in Boston’s Jordan Hall, an ambitious program that included two pieces played by the three original Quartet’s members Eugene Drucker (violin), Philip Setzer (violin), and Lawrence Dutton (viola) in 1976 when they were just, as Setzer said, “a baby quartet”:  Bartόk’s String Quartet No. 2 and Beethoven’s String Quartet No. 8 in E minor, Op. 59, no. 2 “Razumovsky.”  Cellist Paul Watkins joined the Emerson in 2013, himself now a veteran of a decade’s playing together.

    The afternoon was understandably nostalgic, as the Quartet will give its final performance together in New York City in October 2023, and their Jordan Hall appearance—the 27th—was their last in Boston.  Violinist Drucker’s notes on the first movement of the Bartόk capture the mood:  “There are many forceful, defiant moments, alternating with phrases of bittersweet tenderness, but something has happened to the flow of the music.  It stops and starts, changes tempo and character often without a feeling of transition or resolution.  These fragments are sometimes simplified, sometimes exaggerated, sometimes grotesque—they point in many different directions but don’t really go anywhere.  Together they form a mosaic of nostalgia and despair.”  Also on the program:  George Walker’s Lyric for Strings, a brief piece ending “in serene resignation” (Susan Halpern) and Shostakovich’s String Quartet No. 12 in D-flat Major, Op. 133, also “full of despair” (Halpern).  The slow movement of the Beethoven Op. 59, no. 2, Molto adagio,  Beethoven said, is to be played “with much sentiment,” adding to the bittersweet resonances of a performance completed with Dvořák’s wistful Cypresses No. 7.

    Ay, me.  Even my favorite parking venue serving the New England Conservatory and Symphony Hall, the Midtown hotel, is (according to friendly desk clerk Mark) slated to be razed to make way for a new apartment complex.  And by the time I pulled out onto Huntington Avenue, the snow had begun.

    The Emerson Quartet, Final Performance in Jordan Hall, Boston
    22 Jan 2023
    (photo by Robert Torres)

    I just barely beat home that Sunday snowstorm, and by early Monday morning, power and landlines were down in New Hampshire. Even the day was dark.  My friend Diane, saddened by her father’s recent passing, emailed right before I lost internet service that she can for now continue her break from chemotherapy, her good news mixed with sad. 

    Then post-storm on Tuesday I visited briefly with my friend Jack down the street, who had just that day begun hospice care.  Himself a surgeon, Jack is a wry stoic and seems somewhat bemused by the complexities of 21st century dying, complaining without rancor that it seemed an awfully elaborate business.  “The Eskimos had the right idea,” he said, and quipped that the installation of a chair lift in their home’s staircase constitutes the most expensive travel he’s ever undertaken given the duration of the trip.  Ours was a calm, gratifying, and plain-dealing conversation even as Jack’s harried wife negotiated calls about medications with only spotty cell service, the land line down and power still out, conditions of course augmenting her anxiety.  I reported to Jack the success of my recent Mohs surgery, and voiced my own practical concerns about being mortal:  who will look after all of us boomers, the “pig in the python” generation, arriving more or less simultaneously at the terminus?  Who can say?

    Returning home to the roar of our generator, I decided to seek distraction elsewhere, though my choice of diversion could hardly lift one’s spirits. It didn’t.  The film Women Talking is based on the 2018 novel of the same name by Miriam Toews, in turn inspired by real-life events that occurred at the ultraconservative Mennonite Mantiba Colony in Bolivia, where between 2005 and 2009 more than 100 girls and women were raped at night in their homes by a group of colony men who sedated them with animal anesthetic. The youngest victim was three years old, and the oldest was 65.  The newly released 2022 American film written and directed by Sarah Polley reimagines a group of colony women, all kept uneducated without schooling and illiterate, gathering secretly to discuss the nighttime attacks they have suffered, and to decide on a course of action.  The cast (most notably Claire Foy, Jessie Buckley, and Ben Whishaw, with Frances McDormand, also a producer, in a lesser role) give extraordinary, haunting performances of Polley’s remarkable screenplay, a horrifying, unforgettable story ultimately a paean to female strength and solidarity.  With its very limited run at the local Regal Cinema complex, and preceded by appallingly crass trailers of loud, candy-colored, violent, BORING Marvel Universe films and also-ran so-called “blockbuster” movies, Women Talking felt all the more extraordinary and important, finally disturbing and inspiring in equal measure.

    By 2.07 am Wednesday morning, the power was back on here in Madbury and quotidian life resumed despite a second though not so wet and heavy snowfall. 

    A rafter of turkey hens post storm . . .
    or would “coven” be the better word?

    I took up routine again–not, however, unaltered by re-acquaintance with Ultimate Things, my recent experience shaped by consummate artistry and the courage of friends.

  • Submechaniphobia 15 January 2023

    Wendy, submerged in a plane in Jordan–yikes!

    My friend Wendy is a fearless adventurer, downhill skier, and scuba aficionado, in addition to her many other accomplished roles including art historian, curator, and first-class cook.  I already knew that when yesterday this photo showed up in my email linked to a Facebook post she had made:  Wendy inside a Lockheed L1011 air intake on the sea floor in Jordan.

    This image terrifies on so many levels—some more obvious than others.  Airplanes should be either in the air or on the ground, not under water.  And as for posing while scuba diving inside a sunken plane’s air intake:  that’s pushing the “air intake” metaphor to its literal limit in my book.  Just the thought of scuba makes me claustrophobic. If you want a safe but heightened taste of that phobia, watch Ron Howard’s excellent 2022 film Thirteen Lives, based on the true story of the 2018 mission to rescue 12 boys and their soccer coach from Thailand’s flooded Tham Luang Nang Non cave system.  Holy cow.

    For me, Wendy’s photo also rhymes experientially with two other direct encounters of the scarifying sublime. Looking down into a Hoover Dam spillway on one of our many visits to the desert southwest really gave me the willies. And artist Nari Ward’s Nu Colossus (2011), part of Ward’s “Sub Mirage Lignum” installation at MASS MoCA (2 April 2011-4 March 2012) had an awful allure.

    Hoover Dam spillway
    Nari Ward’s Nu Colossus (2011), MASS MoCa

    The form of Nu Colossus came from the small conical basket-woven fish traps used in Ward’s native Jamaica; fish are lured into these traps only to get ensnared once inside.  Ward’s leviathan 60-foot long sculpture, a whirlwind on its side, appears to have sucked in random bits of weathered furniture—and threatens the viewer in much the same uncanny way.

    Ward’s Nu Colossus from behind

    As for the Hoover Dam spillway, a terrestrial undertow that so creeped me out that I vividly recall its alarming gravitational pull decades later, it took my searching the Internet for a picture of it to discover that there’s a Reddit community devoted to sharing images prompting “the fear of partially or fully submerged man-made objects.”  Ah, so!  There’s a word for the sensation Wendy’s dive, the Hoover dam spillway, and Ward’s Colossus all evoke in me:  submechaniphobia!  And it’s curious how absent the “man-made” aspect, approaching the lower depths does NOT scare me, not even the 755-foot descent into Carlsbad Caverns that my husband and I managed to hike back in March of 2016.  What’s the deal with that?

    Entrance to Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico
    Intrepid Spelunker, 14 March 2016
    Emerging from Carlsbad Cavern (or Dante’s Inferno?)

    I’m wondering, too, how much agency versus being pulled against one’s will into the vortex has to do with this phobia.  At 70, the allegorical vortex I fear is the Charybdis of dementia, the slow sucking away of cognition.  I feel its tug when I think of a thing and cannot come up with the word for it.  Most recently, that was the “abacus” that appeared in an early morning dream.  Why an abacus?  And why couldn’t I think of that word until later that day?  Even in the dream I was struggling to name what I saw before me, an oblong frame with rows of wires along which counting beads are slid.  Dreaming is a favorite hobby these days: I’m fascinated by the self-generated stories that retirement affords me the leisure to enjoy, however much they sometimes disturb.

    This morning I awoke in a coil (Ah! There’s that sucking circle again!) about someone’s taking over my Centre College office in the Norton Center for the Arts back in Danville, Kentucky, an office I left voluntarily almost 28 years ago.  I had loved that nicely appointed peach-colored space with its Taliesen floor-to-ceiling one-way glass window, a far cry from the bull pen stall afforded Tulane teaching assistants from which I had graduated.  Coming back to the comfortable present after that dreamed distress took quite a bit of calming concentration. I certainly had agency back then, but I reckon the sense of loss remains.

    Then, too, I think this morning I was still under the influence of A Man Called Otto, the new Tom Hanks film I saw last night with its moving and rather-too-recognizable portrait of a bereaved husband so eager to join the spouse he lost that only his new neighbor (played for maximum warmth by Mariana Treviño) can pull him back into living life.  Or again, maybe my dream was the spell cast by the imminent 65th birthday of my “baby” sister, the occasion sucking me back into the past.

    Valentine’s Day 1958, Georgy (5) and Baby Jane (3 weeks)

    Still, the trigger could even be the box of past vacation folders I am slowly sorting and mostly discarding, activity simultaneously pulling me back in time and making me chary of what lies ahead.

    But really:  submechaniphobia?  Bah!  As the Irishman I once stopped on the road to Kinsale to ask directions replied, “You’re here now, right?” 

    Indeed.  And here now is just fine.

  • Twelfth Night January 6, 2023

    Last stand for the 2022 Christmas tree

    In the past, Epiphany has evoked for me many things beyond the charming tale of the three wise men (the assistant magus, the associate magus, and the full magus as Garrison Keillor once told the story) paying homage to the newborn king of the Jews.  As an English major, I was taught to associate an epiphany with James Joyce, but came also to celebrate it as the birthday of two close friends, Sandy in Virginia and Marianne in Munich, as well as the beginning of Carnival season in New Orleans with its traditional weekly round of king cakes. And, of course, one of Shakespeare’s sweetest, funniest, most poignant plays about (among other things) patient, devoted, selfless love finally rewarded: Twelfth Night.

    In the past two years, however, Twelfth Night has conjured not the Christmas revels of happy times, but the January 6 insurrection, the domestic equivalent of 9/11, a shameful, painful day on which our hard-won democracy nearly toppled.  And now, this 6 January, that date evokes a tale of TWO insurrections, this one internal and conducted by the wing nut Republicans on a 4th day of the House’s failure to elect a speaker and begin conducting the nation’s business.  As I type this the House has just completed its 13th ballot, with McCarthy falling three votes short of the gavel.  I quail at the concessions he has made to the lunatic fringe of his party.  Of the 147 Republicans who initially voted to overturn the 2020 presidential election results, many remain in the House divided, including Kevin McCarthy, himself an election denier.  So, McCarthy’s humiliating struggle to become Speaker grows less and less reason for schadenfreude as he moves closer and closer to attaining his goal.

    There is, however, an enjoyable, almost Dante-esque contrapasso in the current proceedings, with this sinner’s crime against elections earning him an equal and fitting punishment.  As Jon Stewart apparently tweeted this morning, this is CNN’s Best Season Ever!

    Me, I’ll be enjoying the last night of our library illuminated by 2022’s Christmas trees, one decorated with ornaments collected over many years and one with cards from friends far and near.  And, perhaps, I’ll have that last piece of Danish kringle from Wisconsin as a special, celebratory dispensation from new year’s resolutions on this snowy Twelfth Night.

    A bit of Florida inside
    A white Twelfth Night outside

  • Remembering Virginia

    Virginia, 31, at the beach with Georgy, 19 months, June 1954

    At 5.15 on the evening of 2 January 2008, my mother, Virginia Ruth Senseman Murphy, departed this dimension six months shy of her 85th birthday. On this evening almost exactly 15 years later, I am missing her, but recalling lines from Will It Be Okay?, Crescent Dragonwagon’s 1977 picture book classic in which a worried young daughter’s questions are answered by her wise mother.  Recently published in a new edition illustrated by Jessica Love, those characters’ ultimate exchange in their loving catechism comes to mind.

    The fearful child asks:

    “What if you die?”

    Her mother answers:

    “My loving doesn’t die.  It stays with you, as warm as two pairs of mittens, one pair on top of the other.  When you remember you and me, you say:  What can I do with so much love?  I will have to give some away.”

    How fortunate to have so wise a mother!

    I did. I do.

    Georgy and Virginia, c. 1957
    Hibiscus blooming in New Hampshire, 2 January 2023

  • Richard Parker, Ritual, and the Salutary Power of Story, 31 Dec 2022

    Life of Pi Production Photo Rowan Magee, Celia Mei Rubin, and Nikki Calonge (“Richard Parker”) in Life of Pi. Photo:
    Matthew Murphy and Evan Zimmerman for MurphyMade

    Terrestrial icebergs line my Madbury driveway this last day of 2022, plow- and weather-sculpted remnants of the one seasonal snowfall we had before the high winds and warm rain of Winter Storm Elliott’s bomb cyclone melted all the other snow and ushered in this dull, overcast, 53o last day of 2022.

    Last days always seem as significant as first days, and the year’s end brings no shortage of opinion synthesizing events of the past year.  Today I’m certainly thinking of endings—Judy Woodruff has made her final appearance as anchor of the PBS Evening News.  Barbara Walters and Pope Benedict XVI now belong to the ages.  Trump’s tax returns are at last public.  The House Select Committee on January 6 has concluded its work and presented its recommendations, leaving me an unlikely fan of Liz Cheney, and Putin’s war on Ukraine grinds on as the comedian turned wartime president Volodymyr Zelenskyy, a latter-day Churchill, heroically, fearlessly leads his devastated country and is named Time’s Person of the Year, reminding our demoralized democracy of what we used to—and still might again—believe.

    The incomparable Judy Woodruff
    Photo © Tony Powell. PBS NewsHour Portraits. September 12, 2018
    President Zelenskyy with Ukrainian military in Bakhrut, 20 Dec 2022

    My run-up to the holidays has included two completely absorbing productions, one theatrical, one choral; Mohs surgery that has rid me of melanoma (yay!) and, at least for now, disfigured my visage (boo!); and trying to make sense both of all that’s past and all that lies ahead.  I’ve been observing my annual ritual of the calendar, transcribing into my 2023 (??!!) Letts pocket diary significant happenings from previous years, most often to the accompaniment of whatever’s on NPR.  As chance would have it, what I heard on Shankar Vedantam’s Hidden Brain series was an episode about rituals, why we have them, of what use they are, and the empirical research validating them (the episode’s title suggests) as “An Ancient Solution to Modern Problems.”  In this broadcast, UConn’s anthropologist Dimitris Xygalatas explains the research most recently published in his 2022 book, Ritual:  How Seemingly Senseless Acts Make Life Worth Living, offering me a timely epiphany about my own responses to the play and the choral performance that so impressed me in Cambridge and Newburyport within the last fortnight.

    A summary of Xygalatas’s findings as elicited by Vedantam: 

    • The paradox:  People often claim that the ritual they perform is the most important thing they do, but they can’t say why.
    • Rituals and ceremonial activities unify members of a group into a single organism, not only sharing focus but even synchronizing heart rates among the participants.
    • Rituals “hack into our inner world,” helping us cope with anxiety and grief precisely because they are performed together.
    • Our physical brains evolved to recognize the necessity of cooperation and membership in a group, but our brains have not yet evolved to address modern problems.  Stress as a response to fleeing a tiger is good, but our stressors are not tigers.  Our environment has changed, but not our brains.
    • Vedantam’s analogy:  rituals are like a software patch that bridges this gap for our computer-like, predictive brains.
    • When we cannot be certain of what an outcome will be, ritual helps because we CAN control the ritual, which is always repetitive, rigid (always done the same way), and redundant (that is, going beyond what the situation actually requires; the “causal opacity” of the ritual—the fact that repeated actions of a ritual are seemingly unrelated to the goal or outcome sought–is part of their salutary effect).
    • In clinical studies, inducing anxiety produces ritualized behavior, a “mental technology” that demonstrably enhances performance.
    • Doing things in synchrony with others makes us feel more similar, elevates endorphins, and enhances trust.  Think of how many rituals involved dancing and singing.
    • “High arousal” rituals—rituals that appeal to ALL the senses, performed collectively–make us feel like brothers, and add to the authority of the one leading the ritual.
    • Rituals transform the everyday into the symbolic.
    • Participation in a ritual propels the individual into a flow state, lifting a cloud of distraction and inducing a focusing jolt of exhilaration that allows for the impossible (like walking on hot coals without being burned) and extends long past the ritual action.

    Although Xygalatas and Vedantam did not make the specific connection to the performing arts, this research into ritual went a long way to explaining the extraordinary effect on me of two performances I attended in the week leading up to Christmas.  Of course the Western theatre traditions I taught for decades began in religious ritual—twice, first in Greece’s theatre festivals honoring Dionysus, and again in the Christian liturgical tropes of the early 10th century.  The complete engagement of audience and performers when a theatrical piece is really working is an exhilarating drug—a “high arousal ritual” in Xygalatas’s phrase—that dispels all distractions and distills focus in performer and audience alike.

    And that’s what I experienced, but had been attributing to the coincidence of two narratives, each capable of moving by words alone, transformed into affecting performance pieces, one by adding music and live performance eliciting both grief and joy, and the other with the full monty of theatrical effects that periodically astonished me into leaving my COVID-masked, surgically compromised jaw agape.  First came A Christmas Carol, the so-familiar tale abridged and edited by choral group Skylark’s Matthew Guard from Dickens’s 30,000 words to 5,000, then woven by composer Benedict Sheehan, who with Guard selected, re-arranged, and re-imagined traditional carols, including many unfamiliar ones and folksongs, into a continuous “story score” with incidental music Sheehan composed that with few exceptions accompanied Dickens’s narrative, spoken with measured precision by storyteller Sarah Walker. 

    Skylark with Matthew Guard

    The result, performed in Newburyport’s Belleville Church on Saturday, 17 December 2022, was spellbinding and at times heart-breaking.  The mezzo soprano’s lament portraying Mrs. Cratchit’s grief at the loss of Tiny Tim, that excruciatingly sad scene the Ghost of Christmas Yet to Come offers Ebenezer Scrooge, did in fact elicit tears, making Scrooge’s giddy conversion to humanity all the more joyful at the story’s end.  Matthew Guard did a thorough pre-concert exposition of how this sublime transformation of story to Skylark’s now signature “story concert” happened, the work of 19 consummate artists collaborating.  Informative and fascinating, that.  But it’s the salutary benefits of ritual I now realize that explain for me what this group—and we in the audience—finally experienced.

    Ditto Lolita Chakrabarti’s adaptation of Yann Martel’s novel, Life of Pi, into the stage play currently appearing at the A.R.T. in Cambridge, directed by Max Webster in collaboration with scenic and costume designer Tim Hatley, puppetry and movement direction by Finn Caldwell, in tandem with puppet design by Caldwell and Nick Barnes.

    Life of Pi Production Photo Adi Dixit (“Pi”), Rowan Magee, Celia Mei Rubin, and Nikki Calonge (“Richard Parker”) in Life of Pi. Photo:
    Matthew Murphy and Evan Zimmerman for MurphyMade

    Anyone who saw Ang Lee’s 2012 film version of Martel’s novel has to be curious about how so fantastic a narrative could be transposed for the theatre.  Well, having seen the resulting production, which in April 2022 won five Olivier Awards at London’s Royal Albert Hall, including Best New Play, Best Scenic and Lighting Design, and the Best Supporting Actor Award shared by the seven puppeteers who play the tiger “Richard Parker,” I found my expectations quite marvelously exceeded.

    Life of Pi Production Photo Rowan Magee (Sea Turtle), Jonathan David Martin (Puppeteer), Adi Dixit (“Pi”), Celia Mei Rubin, Mahira Kakkar, and Nikki Calonge (“Orange Juice”) in Life of Pi. Photo:
    Matthew Murphy and Evan Zimmerman for MurphyMade

    A story finally about the transformative power of the story brought home to me how powerful theatrical ritual is, and the afterglow of exhilaration and community lasted long past the long, dark, detouring drive back to Madbury from Cambridge.  This extraordinary show stays in Cambridge till the end of January 2023 and heads to Broadway in March, so no further spoilers here.

    Takeaways re tigers and tales turned ritual:  narrative re-imagined as theatrical performance certainly owes its power to the artful synaesthesia converting words to sensual experience, but the real clout comes from the purposeful assembly essential to ritual, in which the whole community participates—and at least for a while, bonds and heals.  I will take that lesson with me into the new year. 

    Happy 2023!

  • Christmas Day at Wallis Sands

    Frozen Marsh along the NH coastline, 25 Dec 2022

    Though I have lived in New Hampshire since 1995, the beach in winter has not yet lost its novelty for this Florida cracker, remaining for me an exotic inversion of the warm Gulf beaches of my youth in St. Petersburg:  white sand and palm trees replaced by rocks and sea ice.  Finding myself solo this Christmas Day and the sun shining after so luckily dodging the damage Winter Storm Elliott’s bomb cyclone might have brought, I slept late, had a fine breakfast of Quiche Lorraine and pears, and headed to Wallis Sands for a stroll. 

    There I was met by many delights:  a sky so clear that the Isles of Shoals seemed near, bundled-up pleasant company wishing me Merry Christmas and spotting me as I unsteadily negotiated the granite rock barrier that separates the public from the private beach, and a man pretending to be a polar bear by braving the 26o air temperature (plus a stiff, cold ocean wind) to the vastly amused disbelief of onlookers.

    Not for me “the eternal note of sadness”!   The “tremulous cadence slow” of lapping waves that depressed Matthew Arnold has always been for me a comfort, recalling long beach walks with my loving dad and later my wonderful ex-Navy brother-in-law Neil, who never tired of strolling the beach at Naval Air Station North Island, Coronado (also home of the Del Coronado, aka “The Del,” the historic 1888 beach resort, a San Diego icon that played the role of the Seminole Ritz in the 1959 film Some Like it Hot—which streams in every room on a continuous loop, another delightful memory).

    I returned home to a warm fire, some carefully selected presents to open, and an excellent Christmas dinner completed with a slice of the fruitcake I baked from Neil’s beloved Liz’s gift, a gorgeously extravagant platter of dried California fruit.

    Much virtue in a day at the beach, whatever the season.

    Happy Holidays!  Happy New Year to come!