• Gundalow

    6 August 2025

    The gundalow Piscataqua moored at the Marcy Street dock, Portsmouth NH (the vertical-lift Memorial Bridge to Kittery in the background)

    In this brave new world of OpenAI offering both “companionship” for the lonely and the undoing of education as I once knew it, I’ve been seeking solace from such discombobulating changes in the macrocosm—and in my personal microcosm as well.  The latest physical annoyance in the latter:   floating bodies—chips of bone in my knees, floaters in my eyes—common, alas, to advancing age.  Last week’s solution:  fight floating bodies with a floating body of a third kind.  The gundalow is a flat-bottomed sailing barge that first appeared in Maine and New Hampshire rivers in the mid-1600’s, and used tidal currents for propulsion supplemented by a single triangular (“lateen”) sail brailed to a heavy yard to harness wind.  The heavily counterweighted yard attached to a stump mast allows the yard to be pivoted down to shoot under bridges while maintaining the boat’s way; with a draught of only 3 feet, gundalows were very active river craft in the 1700 and 1800’s, sometimes delivering cordwood to brickworks to fire their kilns, and picking up cargoes of finished bricks in return.  They were practical and elegant in their practicality.

    Last Wednesday the Seacoast Village Project, a nonprofit network of older adults working together to improve their odds of aging in place, afforded me my first chance to sail on a reconstructed gundalow, the Piscataqua, and to visit the newly restored Wood Island Life Saving Station at the mouth of the Piscataqua River.  Until recently that structure was a romantic ruin off the Kittery coast, tantalizing me from my first arrival in Portsmouth over 30 years ago, so this was an offer I could not refuse.  The day was fine, the company enjoyable, and the maritime history captivating, from the first glimpse of the Piscataqua moored at the Marcy Street dock behind Portsmouth’s Prescott Park in its late summer full blooming splendor.  Here, Dear Reader, is a photo essay of a delightful outing.

    Prescott Park in full summer glory
    Cannas, hydrangeas, and salvia bloom in front of Strawbery Banke, Portsmouth
    Canada Geese turn Prescott turf into obstacle course (tariff revenge?)
    The Piscataqua crew readies the ship for boarding
    Old Salt Peter Cass volunteer crews
    Wood Island and Whaleback Lighthouse on the horizon
    Arrival at the Wood Island Life Saving Station, 43.0640oN  70.6974oW
    Charismatic WILSSA (Wood Island Life Saving Station Association
    President Sam Reid explains the exemplary history of the Station and its restoration

    In 1908, the current Life Saving Station and a tool shed were built by Sugden Brothers of Portsmouth NH for the US Life Saving Service. Its Duluth style, so called because the first examples of this style were built in and around Duluth, Minnesota to serve the Great Lakes, was designed by architect George R. Tolman. (Duluth, Minnesota, by the way, takes its name from French explorer Daniel Greysolon, Sieur du Luht, the first European to navigate the St. Louis River in 1679.) Tolman’s 1908 structure replaced the original Jerry’s Point Station #12 across the harbor in New Castle NH which had been requisitioned by the US Navy. Federal ownership of the Station was conveyed to Kittery ME in 1973, but absent funds to maintain the historic property, it fell into disrepair, and in 2009, Kittery planned to demolish it.

    Lacking the money even for demolition, in 2011, Kittery advertised a Request for Proposals for non-profits interested in restoring and reusing the Station on behalf of Kittery. That’s when the newly formed Wood Island Life Saving Station Association was formed, and proved the only respondent to the RFP. With construction help from both the Maine National Guard and the Maine Army National Guard—and $7 million in funds and grants raised by WILSSA—the Wood Island Life Saving Station opened as a museum of maritime history in 2024, honoring the bravery of surfmen over 100 years earlier with the motto “Helping Others, Then and Now.”

    The Mervin F. Roberts, a fully restored 1930’s surfboat, rests on a custom-made steel cradle mounted on a one-of-its-kind marine railway for expedient launch. The 8-man rescue craft was named for one-time owner Roberts, decorated WWII Naval officer and beloved longtime resident of Old Lyme, Connecticut.
    The Atlantic-facing side of the Station, with lookout tower characteristic of the Duluth style
    View from the back porch: Whaleback Lighthouse (1872)
    A pleasant porch perch
    21st-century power for the 1908 Station
    Whaleback seen from the observation deck
    Original plaster in the pantry
    Gundalow skipper guides us to harbor . . .
    . . . passing the creepy, derelict Navy Brig (1908-1974)
    . . . and the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard
    The Piscataqua crew lowers the sail

    A lighthouse (as Virginia Woolf certainly knew) has an uncanny and oxymoronic appeal:  lonely, forbidding, and unreachable, yet illuminating and salutary, warding off disaster.  And the romance of Wood Island’s Life Saving Station coupled with the nearby Whaleback Lighthouse is undeniable.  The courage and dedication of strong men willing to save lives while risking their own in perilous seas is a tonic antidote to the selfish vanity of late-stage capitalism (think Gordon Gekko’s mantra:  “Greed is Good”).

    And the complex story of saving the Wood Island Station so that it might continue the altruism of its original purpose is a tribute to our better angels.  Add to that already rich tale the story of our first Treasury Secretary, the now (thanks to Lin-Manuel Miranda) reanimated Alexander Hamilton, and the good vibes emanating from Wood Island continue to resonate, for it was Hamilton who on 4 August 1790 persuaded Congress to fund ten Revenue Cutters (fast coastal patrol boats) to collect customs duties at US seaports, creating the oldest continuously operating naval service of the U.S.   This merged with the US Life-Saving Service in 1915 to form the US Coast Guard, which in turn incorporated the U.S. Lighthouse Service in 1939; Hamilton is thus credited with founding the U.S. Coast Guard, and became part of our high spirits on a sunny summer’s day.

    The Coast Guard celebrated its 235th birthday last Saturday with a fireworks display over Portsmouth Harbor free for all to witness—and to contribute to the Portsmouth Food Bank, Gather—there on New Castle Common

    A good day, salutary for body and spirit. Hail to thee, Floating Body!

    The gundalow “Piscataqua,” on the Piscataqua River, Portsmouth NH
    Photograph by Ralph Morang

  • On Wisconsin

    29 July – 2 August 2025

    Windhover Hall at the Milwaukee Art Museum, Santiago Calatrava, architect, constructed 1997-2001

    The coincidence of birthdays in July—my brother-in-law Reed “Chad” Andrew turned 91 on the 13th and nephew Rob Andrew 58 on the 25th—brought me back to Wisconsin once again this year and a most welcome reunion with family, some very fine brunches, a return to the still astonishing Milwaukee Art Museum, and a rather disconcerting sense of the distance, both metaphorical and literal, between coastal New Hampshire and the Midwest, deliberately exaggerated by my returning to New Castle Common on the eve of my departure out of some sense of closure that so often now accompanies my travels.  Putting things in order (in case of no return) includes a quasi-ceremonial “last look” at what I love.

    Portsmouth Harbor Lighthouse and Coast Guard Station
    viewed from New Castle Common, NH
    Wild Morning Glories on the Common
    Seventeenth-century home on New Castle

    Arrival in Milwaukee that Tuesday evening was easy if somewhat disappointing:  the airport Best Western I’d booked for its capacious indoor swimming pool let me down, its unairconditioned atrium rain forest humid and sweltering in the heat wave, and the pool crammed with children playing Marco Polo.  I passed on a swim.  Last year the funky bar and grill In Plane View’s patio was just the place to enjoy a post-flight burger, but this time the heat sent me on a search that led me first to a place with senior karaoke at full volume (nope!), at last ending in the Mexican place right next to the sad Best Western for a dinner of mediocre tacos.

    I made up for such fare the next morning with a fine brunch at Blue’s Egg and Bakery en route to the Andrew home in Portage, and the warm embrace of family.

    Dubliner Benedict at Blue’s Egg: corned beef and leeks on rye toast
    with poached eggs and paprika aioli
    The welcome committee l to r: Chad, Jan, Pam, and Rob

    Over our two days together, we did a lot of catching up and some walking around the Saddle Ridge development amidst drumlins and a kettle lake called Swan Lake (thank you, glaciers of 30,000-10,000 years ago, for the landscape). We made a pilgrimage to the home of superior grilled-cheese-and tomato-soup lunches, the Sassy Cow Creamery in Columbus (“Unlimited Milk Refills!”); took in the open skies and rolling cornfields as well as the depleted little downtown of Pardeeville; played Sequence (made me wonder if the gay version would be “Sequins,” a speculation I kept to myself); and for breakfast enjoyed Jan’s excellent Baked French Toast Casserole (via a recipe from appropriately named pioneerwoman.com).

    The Sassy Cow Creamery in Columbus WI
    Pardeeville WI downtown
    Miles and miles of cornfields
    Visiting Sandhill Cranes
    Watercraft at the Swan Lake Marina, Saddle Ridge, Portage

    Time passing, however unacknowledged, was inevitably, wistfully on everyone’s mind:  will another such reunion be possible next year? 

    My perhaps obsessively acute awareness of my own accelerating aging made me wonder, and sent me back to Milwaukee searching for solace, comfort I happily found both at the Wisconsin chain Culver’s (home of butter burgers and frozen custard—and good, plain, reasonably priced food; wish we had a Culver’s in NH) and in the Mitchell Park Domes, Milwaukee’s second botanical conservatory, beehive-shaped conoidal glass domes designed by Milwaukee architect Donald L. Grieb in 1955, constructed from 1959-1967, and dedicated by Lady Bird Johnson in the fall of 1965.

    The Mitchell Park Domes, Milwaukee

    The three domes—Tropical, Desert, and Show—proved unexpectedly charming, especially the tropical one, no doubt exotic to native Wisconsinites (aka Cheeseheads) in winter, but homey to this Floridian.  The Desert display pointed out the importance of date palms that for the first time made me realize that Date Palm Avenue, South in St. Petersburg had resonance beyond my home address.

    Inside the Tropical Dome
    Helicomia rostrata, False Bird of Paradise, native to Central and SW America
    Alocasia sanderiana, native to the Phillipines
    Cubanola domingensis, Tree Lily, native to the Dominican Republic
    Echinacactus grusonii, Golden Barrell Cactus, native to Mexico

    Having bailed on returning to the disappointing Best Western, I was pleased that the La Quinta in New Berlin just west of Milwaukee proper was indeed newly refurbished, quiet, and comfortable, though I’m not sure the badger on the wall exuded hospitality.

    Bucky Badger greets me at the La Quinta, New Berlin WI

    I slept long and next morning had a fine sustaining Saturday brunch at nearby BrunchBerry, bustling with weekend trade and complimentary cream puffs.

    Breakfast Bar at BrunchBerry, New Berlin WI
    Garlic Herb Cheese Omelet with Cowboy Potatoes

    Since my flight home did not leave from MKE until 6.30, I had decided to spend most of the day at the Milwaukee Art Museum, whose iconic architecture I’d first discovered last year only days after the attempted assassination of Donald Trump at the Republican convention; admission then was free in honor of the visiting conventioneers, but downtown was crawling with not-so-Secret Service in large, black, tactical vehicles, lending architect Calatrava’s futurism a disconcertingly dystopian cast.

    Not so this year.  I arrived in the cool underground parking lot at MAM just in time to make my way up to the sky bridge across Art Museum Drive to witness the noon closing of the Brise Soleil (sun break), the most iconic feature of Santiago Calatrava’s Quadracci Pavilion, its 217-foot wingspan not only practical in controlling the sunlight entering in and thus the temperature of Windhover Hall, but evocative of the sails and seabirds just behind the soaring structure perched on the Lake Michigan shore.

    Sky bridge at Milwaukee Art Museum
    Brise Soleil et moi (photo by some charming Italians from Chicago)

    The closing takes 3.5 minutes, and occasioned lots of camera swapping among visitors eager both to video the event and record their witnessing of it.  Back inside Windhover Hall’s 90-foot glass nave, a crew of Museum personnel were setting up for a wedding, which made me realize that the uplifting if secular sanctity of that space was just what Calatrava had in mind:  the flying buttresses, pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and soaring nave are a Gothic cathedral reimagined.

    Windhover Hall’s ceiling, 90 feet above the floor
    Prep for a wedding beneath the nave’s ceiling, Lake Michigan on the horizon
    Schroeder Galleria leading to the European Collection

    The collection housed inside, though not expansive, is choice and very well captioned.  I was heartened by the number of young families visiting on this sunny Saturday, and impressed by the kid-friendly opportunities to not just appreciate, but make art.  One of the young gallery staff even pointed out to me a place to sit and recharge my phone:  everything at MAM felt both elevated and accessible.

    St. George slays the dragon, Tyrol/Austria, 1475-1490
    Strong but compassionate George
    Edge of England, Cornelia Parker, 1999 (chalk, wire, wire mesh)
    Typewriter Eraser, Claes Oldenburg, 1976 (the year I entered grad school)
    Decorative arts, including an IBM Selectric (1961); its typeball printed my dissertation in 1984
    Honeywax, Kiki Smith, 1995 (how I feel most days since 2016)

    I had tea on the lakeside porch where last July I had had to deal with the bogus Amazon publishers who were trying to scam me out of rights to my own Will to Live manuscript, a phone call all the more memorable for being so out of place in such a blithe setting.

    Lakeside porch at MAM
    Inside the Café, promenade on the horizon

    Good to be back at the same spot with that mishigas finally resolved.  And the promenade of passersby deploying an amusing array of transport amused:  strolling, jogging, running, rollerblading, scootering, pedaling 4-seater canopied surreys, riding bicycles, Segways, and one motorized unicycle.

    After a final visit to the American collection, I walked to the south façade of MAM to discover the wedding party who would later celebrate in the Windhover nave and dine in the Baumgartner Galleria.  Tacitly wishing them well, I set my gps for the airport, and 8.5 hours later, returned to my home sweet home.

    Wedding party on the south lawn at MAM

  • July so far: Good Trouble in the Summertime

    22 July 2025

    Standing united on 17 July 2025, Dover NH

    I’m was up this morning far earlier than accustomed for this retiree, as Levi Ellis and his painting crew arrived at 8 am to restore my shower and apse ceilings and our big deck to their original pristine state.  And it’s unusually cool for mid-July in New Hampshire, a welcome reprieve from the heat of past weeks:  66o upstairs with no ac and widows open, low humidity.  Brilliant blue sky.  There’s the drip drip drip of the Trump/Epstein saga on recently defunded NPR, and I woke to a tick crawling on my neck.  But the day is too fine for pessimism, and however sleep deprived, I’m thinking of what’s been a very fine July so far.

    For one thing, last Thursday’s “Good Trouble” rally on 17 July, the fifth anniversary of John Lewis’s passing, I judge a success.  Ninety hot minutes at the intersection of Washington and Central Ave in Dover, New Hampshire garnered some middle finger salutes, but also lots of approval honking, some even from big rig 18-wheelers.  I stand by (and below) my protest sign:  Only Ongoing Organized Outrage Overcomes Oppression.  Maybe, just maybe the Opposition is gaining some momentum, and we shall overcome.

    It’s the month of celebrating the birth of what my late husband always called the Un-tied States—now, it seems, as untied as ever before.  But I’ve always loved the Fourth of July, forever associated with my bon vivant Uncle Kenny, his glamorous wife my Aunt Mart, and their beautiful daughters, the “Big Girls” Bevy and Bobbie, respectively four and two years older than me and always gorgeously turned out.  Every summer the Murphy family made the 3-day pre-interstate drive from St. Pete to Dayton to visit the Murphy grandparents, and every Fourth we went to the Senseman home in Kettering adjoining a country club; in her terraced back yard Aunt Mart would stage a big cookout always followed by a tremendous fireworks display over the neighboring golf course.  Every year one firecracker was launched with a parachute which, if found and claimed, meant a prize (of indeterminate worth), and every year, flanked by the Big Girls, my beautiful cousins, I ran through the dark, half flying because suspended by the grasp of the taller cousins, to Find The Parachute.  We never did.  Didn’t matter.  The thrill remains.

    My beloved Uncle Kenny died on the Fourth of July 1984, the evening I was in the parking lot of the Danville Manor shopping center out on the Danville, Kentucky bypass with the Centre College Chair of Humanities, Milton Reigelman, who took me to see the fireworks after my day of hunting for an apartment where I would start my first year as a just-hired assistant professor, the beginning of a new life.  I toast Uncle Kenny every Fourth, and try to celebrate as often as possible the Spirit of ’76, which this year takes on a new urgency.

    Julee’s spectacular appetizer at this year’s Fourth party
    Food and Fireworks for the Festivities
    Foodie photographers Julee, Shiao-Ping, and Carol record the moment

    This year the serendipitous simultaneity of invitations from two different sets of friends in western Massachusetts got me the first road trip of summer.  First stop:  Easthampton, where good friend and colleague artist Brian Chu currently has his first show at the Oxbow Gallery, and friends of my baby professor days Ann and Sheldon now have a lovely home with their son Peter close by their daughter Rachel, son-in-law Joe, and new grandson Simon, truck aficionado and light of everyone’s life.  Brian’s paintings, another of Ann’s gorgeous dinners, catchup time on the porch (with the appearance of TWO foxes), and a visit to the Smith College art museum next day were a real delight.

    Centre College Reunion (Ann, Georgeann, and Sheldon) with Chu paintings
    Adam’s Point, NH, Oil on canvas, Brian Chu, 2020-2025

    And then it was off to Granby, where Wendy (retired from the Mount Holyoke Art Museum and now practicing underwater seamstress), Nora (ABD art historian just returned from Rome), and resident guard dog (Gali)Leo were immersed in delayed Fourth of July party prep.

    Wendy, ever the organized hostess
    Nora, sous chef
    Leo, Noble Briard

    How delightful to be back at Bencontenta, the temple house that helped inspire David’s and my Gnawwood.

    Bencontenta

    Back in NH for a day, I was soon off to Maine for my first visit to the venerable Ogunquit Playhouse, famed summer stock venue since 1937, to see a fine production of the 1950 musical Guys and Dolls with my stylist of 30 years, Teri, followed by a fancy dinner at MC in classically Downeast Perkins Cove.  I’m happy to report that “Sit Down, You’re Rockin’ the Boat” remains a show-stopping success.  And who could say no to MC’s Pavola (cold brew gelato, caramel, chocolate, and coconut crumb)?

    Teri at the Ogunquit Playhouse
    Guys and Dolls set design by Adam Koch & Steven Royal
    MC Perkins Cove Pavlova

    July’s been good.  Beloved, gracious, and well-spoken Rotarian Ric Erickson was honored with a bench at the Madbury Public Library while he was still around to enjoy it, and the Library initiated its premier free July concert series:  first the Southern NH Ukelele Group, then last Tuesday, Portsmouth’s New Horizons Band.  Nothing says summer like a band concert on the lawn.

    Ric relishes his tribute
    The Southern NH Ukelele Group at the Madbury Public Library, 8 July 2025
    The New Horizons Band plays the Madbury Public Library, 15 July 2025

    And my favorite series, The Bear, is back for a fourth season, which has me wondering why the Democrats can’t implement Chef Escoffier’s hierarchical brigade system.  As Will Rogers opined:  “I’m not a member of any organized political party.  I am a Democrat.”  But still, the Strafford County Dems, however ungainly, are organizing. 

    And the peach crop is in at Union Lake Orchard, the daylilies are in bloom, and fresh coats of paint inspire a fresh take on cleaning, organizing, and downsizing as the second half of 2025 is well underway.

    Levi, Pete, and Corey bring the deck back to life

    Soon I’m off to hear the UNH Sea Trek Program’s Sea Chantey Singers on the Library lawn, and I plan to enjoy it all—for summer’s lease hath all too short a date.

    Perkins Cove, Maine, 13 July 2025

  • What to Us Now is the Fourth of July?

    2 July 2025

    “UNITED WE STAND, DIVIDED WE FALL,” a country being torn apart by sharply divided parties, Mixed Media, 8″ tall, 13″ wide (Nancy Schön, 2025)

    The proximity of Independence Day and recently hearing filmmaker Ken Burns speak of his upcoming series on the American Revolution have together sent me back to re-reading “the unanimous declaration of the thirteen united States of America.”  Several statements against “the present King of Great Britain” stand uncomfortably out, beginning with the prologue to a long list of offenses asserting that the King’s history “is a history of repeated injuries and usurpations, all having in direct object the establishment of an absolute Tyranny over these States.  To prove this, let Facts be submitted to a candid world. [The direct quotation continues:]

    • He has refused his Assent to Laws, the most wholesome and necessary for the public good.
    • He has made Judges dependent on his Will alone, for the tenure of their offices, and the amount and payment of their salaries.
    • He has erected a multitude of New Offices, and sent hither swarms of Officers to harass our people, and eat out their substance.
    • He has kept among us, in times of peace, Standing Armies without the Consent of our legislatures.
    • He has combined with others to subject us to a jurisdiction foreign to our constitution, and unacknowledged by our laws; giving his Assent to their Acts of pretended Legislation:
    • For cutting off our Trade with all parts of the world:
    • For imposing Taxes on us without our Consent:  For depriving us in many cases, of the benefits of Trial by Jury:
    • He has excited domestic insurrections amongst us . . . .”

    And so, my fellow Americans, we protest—as a group on NO KINGS day, 14 June 2025, countering the Felon-in-Chief’s expensive fiasco of a birthday parade ostensibly celebrating the Army’s 250th anniversary.

    The Richmans protest at the Weeks intersection in Dover NH on 14 June 2025
    Quartet of patriots on the median

    And we protest with the skills we have, like 96-year-old sculptor Nancy Schön’s weekend exhibition, “My Truth” at her Newton, Massachusetts home.  Creator of the beloved “Make Way for Ducklings” sculpture in the Boston Public Garden (and another one in Moscow!  See schon.com), Ms. Schön, of iconic, whimsical animals fame, might seem unlikely to produce political art so vehement in its impact that it both shocked and moved me to tears.  But it did.  The new collection “created to express her anger at the destruction being inflicted by the Trump regine” (as her exhibit brochure proclaims) speaks eloquently for itself.  And so, with the artist’s permission, I offer my own photos of her work together with her accompanying descriptions.

    “JUSTICE,” Our Supreme Court, dominated by far-right extremists,
    Bronze, 12″ tall, 23″ wide
    “GLOBAL BREAKDOWN,” A world order shattered by short sighted greed,
    Mixed Media. 32″ tall
    “LOVE AFFAIR,” A president who does not hide his admiration for Hitler,
    Mixed Media, 9″ tall, 16″ wide
    “LOST SCIENCE,” An ignorant, illiterate attack on science and reason from a lost member of the Kennedy clan, Mixed Media, 27″ tall
    “THE KING,” A convicted felon having made it back to the White House, now attempting to become a dictator, Mixed Media, 16″ tall, 14″ wide
    “UNIVERSITIES,” Revengeful attacks on higher education,
    Mixed Media, 16″ tall, 24″ wide
    “GUNS,” A country controlled by the gun lobby with no regard for horrendous consequences, Bronze, 16″ tall, 18″ wide
    “ROE V WADE,” A huge step backwards for women’s health and freedom of their bodies, Mixed Media, 33″ tall
    “WE WANT MASKS,” Nurses demanding the government’s attention during a crisis, Bronze, 9″ tall, 24″ wide
    “CRYING MASK,” So many tears shed for lives damaged and ended,
    Bronze, 11″ tall
    The artist Nancy Schön (seated) makes a less controversial sale, but the potency of her political art lingers

    Brava, Ms. Schön.  Thanks for inspiring us to keep the fight for unalienable Rights begun in 1776 ongoing.

  • Respite

    27 June 2025

    The Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me logo on stage at Merrill Auditorium, 26 June 2025

    Walking out of the Portsmouth Public Library last Tuesday was like walking into an oven, and since then, the 103o my GTI registered there in the parking lot has been confirmed as a record-breaker for the port town where proximity to the cold Atlantic waters generally means cooler-than-inland temperatures.  Not so this week. Thankfully, the heat dome began to dissipate on Wednesday, and by Thursday, once-celebrated New England temperatures—warm summer days, cool nights—had returned, reminding this Floridian how exotic I once found the L L Bean and Lands End catalogs featuring models wearing shorts with sweaters! as their midsummer ensembles.

    Despite this welcome respite, staying cool remains a challenge. The AC in our Madbury Public Library has been victimized by mice biting through wires I suspect are encased in soy-based insulation, so it’s doubly lucky that cooler days, at least temporarily, lie ahead.  How unfair that mice have joined DOGE and the Felon-in-Chief to hobble public libraries, an uncanny conspiracy of Human and Mother Nature.  And how narrow not only my thermal, but also my temporal comfort zone has become:  surely not all retirees experience a 9:00 meeting at the Library as sleep deprivation.  How ever did I make it to UNH from Portsmouth to teach an 8:00 Brit Lit class all those years ago?  Thank goodness those days are done.

    Post meeting and fueled by a restorative nap plus more than usual coffee intake, I set out last night for Portland’s Merrill Auditorium to attend a taping of NPR’s weekly news quiz show Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me (WWDTM), a long-anticipated respite from the grimness of the 24/7 new cycle: news made comic.  Traffic on I-95 was not bad on a Thursday night; I made good time and negotiated a new parking garage without incident.  One always wonders if unattended machines will honor a pre-purchased QR code to lift the entry gate.  Hesitant to rely exclusively on my ability to retrieve the code on my phone, I always print it out.  But now I’ve discovered a new impediment to my plan B:  my printout worked at the garage, but the Merrill Auditorium scanners will NOT scan a QR code that’s been printed out:  only the bar code on one of their in-house printed tickets or the QR code on a phone will work.  One step forward, two steps back:  I had to pick up a printed ticket at Will Call to get in.

    But once I got through the metal detectors that are yet another sign of how much our civilization has regressed, the atmosphere in the Merrill lobby was festive.  Maine Public Radio had set up a table with free public radio swag:  buttons, bumper stickers, and fans, and clearly the audience—mostly older—shared a political persuasion.  My seatmates, Mainers from Rockwood (classically dressed for summer in shorts, windbreaker, and a cap never removed), were happy to chat; turns out they knew well my friends’ son Sam Richman’s fine restaurant in Rockland, Sammy’s Deluxe, and were enjoying their first visit to Merrill Auditorium, interested in its 1912 construction and 1997 renovation as well as the WWTDM setup waiting on stage.  We speculated not only about the technicians seated at a table right behind the performers, but also about how different the live show would be from the broadcast version to come.  Man-in-shorts next to me suspected the comedians were “tipped off” as to what the topics would be, the better to prepare their jokes.

    I already knew something about that because I’d heard Peter Sagal at Portsmouth’s Music Hall last April, when he devoted most of his stage time to explicating threats to our Constitution; in 2013 he’d done a four-part series for PBS called Constitution USA, travelling cross country on a customized red, white, and blue Harley-Davidson, to find out where the Constitution lives, how it works, and how it unites us as a nation  (see https://www.pbs.org/tpt/constitution-usa-peter-sagal/ ).   A quick-witted Harvard grad, Sagal was funny, passionate, and moving about the history we don’t know and the perils we now face, but he’d also detailed a typical WWDTM work week that leads up to the show’s taping, so I knew that much was scripted—and that much of the script went out the window in performance.

    Peter Sagal addresses the Portland audience

    What I didn’t know was just how much was scripted and how much improvised.  And I still don’t!  What was immediately clear, however, was how very much more there is in the live show than in the broadcast:  the Thursday night taping in Portland began shortly after 7:30 and lasted without intermission until nearly 10:00.  The first thing that happened was a plea from Rick Schneider, CEO of the Maine Public Broadcasting Network:  call your congressmen to protest the pending rescission of funds to public broadcasting; don’t write letters or emails, call!  The audience assented with supportive applause.

    Bill Kurtis in more serious anchor mode

    Then the performers came out, veteran newsman and announcer Bill Kurtis, comedians Karen Chee, Paula Poundstone, and Josh Gondelman, and finally host Peter Sagal.  I saw that Poundstone, dressed in a red-and-white striped suit, another of the clown costumes that are her performance hallmark, held a sheaf of papers, and she had several pre-show exchanges with the tech staff behind her.  Sagal spoke directly to us in the audience, congratulating Maine on its definitive rejection of Donald Trump (great cheers ensued), and then they started the show.  I saw immediately just how much longer all exchanges between Sagal and the comedians were, clearly many scripted, but also many improvised, including lots of callbacks to earlier material, including several running jokes about the “Massholes” Gondelman and Poundstone, the boyfriend Chee once had in Portland, and Poundstone’s inability to recall any of the movies in which she’d seen the celebrity guest booked to play the “Not My Job” segment, Portland native Anna Kendrick, who proved more than a match for all the professional comedians on stage.  Poundstone had recognized and greeted Kendrick by name backstage, but could not place her in any movies she had seen—a delicious running gag that had a big payoff when Kendrick later recited some of her childhood performances in the Merrill Auditorium, including humming from the balcony as part of the children’s snowflake chorus in The Nutcracker, sparking Poundstone’s long delayed epiphany of recognition.

    Glamorous Anna Kendrick showed off her comic chops on Thursday night

    All the performers wore headsets, and the jokes and back-and-forth wit was so quick and spontaneous that quips were sometimes covered by the audience’s laughter.  I reckon the engineers edit that out. When either Kurtis or Sagal mis-spoke something, they simply said it again immediately and correctly, and at the show’s end, they took about five minutes to re-record a few phrases out of context.  Amazing that all of that early editing had taken place while the show was going on.  Then Sagal took some questions from the audience, including one from a 9-year-old who wanted Sagal to know that he went to sleep every night to WWDTM (!), and that it had been his idea, not his parents’, to come to the show.   A young woman in the balcony shouted that she was born on the day the show first began, 3 January 1998.  Sagal grimaced and revealed that at least one of the production staff behind him was even younger than the show.  Another audience member complimented the cast and crew on supplying such much-needed laughter in our currently so vexing time.  Sagal replied that the show was the thing that kept him going as well. 

    Paula Poundstone, superior improvisor and one of my very favorite clowns

    As the 1908 members of the sold-out audience made their way out the exits, I saw Paula Poundstone, the only performer left on stage, confer with the staff behind her for a while, and then respond with an exaggerated change of direction move I once saw Jackie Gleason make (“And away we go!”) to speak to an audience member who called to her from below at the edge of the stage.  Poundstone walked downstage, and leaned over to take the woman’s question.  Last thing I saw over my shoulder as I walked through the exit, Poundstone was sitting on the edge of the stage, her big black-and-white oxfords dangling, leaning into a conversation with this woman.

    Karen Chee, Paula Poundstone, and Josh Gondelman on stage in Portland

    Poundstone’s a mensch.  They all are.  The show was great.  I still feel great, buoyed by their generous art.  And they’ll all do it again tonight.  I’ll listen to Saturday’s broadcast and relive the delight. 

    Thank you, thank you to cast and crew for the respite.  You are indeed a saving grace.

  • Passings

    Alfred Brendel at Carnegie Hall in 2008, his final New York concert
    (photo by Jennifer Taylor for the New York Times)

    On the evening of 8 November 1990, I took a call from one of my recently met colleagues at London’s Regents College, one David Andrew, like me an American affiliate at the College, both of us teaching and looking after students from our home institutions studying abroad for the first time, mine from Kentucky and his from New Hampshire.  David was calling from the Barbican to say he had an extra ticket for Alfred Brendel’s performance of the Brahms piano concerto no. 1 on the second half of the program; if I left my Balcombe Street flat soon, I could make it there in time for the second half of the program when Brendel would play; David would meet me in the lobby of the Hall with the ticket.

    It didn’t take me long to decide to go.  I’d enjoyed talking with David over the previous two months as all the American affiliates struggled to understand what was going on at Regents College under the leadership of John and Gillian Payne, wealthy Brits who had bought the College when it seemed likely to fail under its previous administration; David was the only affiliate who’d been at Regents the previous year, witness to the extravagance that had brought Regents to the brink.  The Paynes were not academics, had made their fortune manufacturing boxes abroad, and were under the misapprehension that we American profs reported to them, not to our home administrators.  Remarkable and hilarious contretemps ensued, with David providing historical context. 

    Besides, Brendel and Brahms together was a Big Deal, so off I went, to sit next to David, keyboard side, second row.  My, my.  It turned out David knew Alfred Brendel from Brendel’s previous visit to the University of New Hampshire.  David had been on the Celebrity Series committee that booked Brendel, had picked him up at Logan Airport, and driven him to his accommodations in the New England Center, then undergoing some renovations.  At the hotel check-in desk, this worried Brendel, who was reassured by the clerk that the noise would not be bothersome.  Brendel’s reply (reported by David complete with Austrian accent):  “Yes, but I don’t have ordinary ears.”  Somewhat nonplussed about what to do next, David suggested Brendel might rather stay at his Portsmouth home, complete with a Steinway model L.  “Oh, could I?” was Brendel’s reply.  And thus began David’s few days of happily serving as Brendel’s valet, and an acquaintance that continued when David arrived in London.

    By the time my parents and sister came to London to spend Christmas 1990 with me, David and I were much more than colleagues, and David invited me to be Brendel’s date for dinner at his Hampstead flat.  I went with my mother dress shopping for the occasion, and she bought me an elegant black frock with a lace collar at one of the august, massive London department stores (perhaps Selfridge’s?) for my Christmas present.  And on 29 December 1990, I made my way to David’s flat, nervous about making a good impression on the Great Man, given that I was NOT, like David, a musician who could speak intelligently of the canon.  I need not have feared.  David had tipped Brendel that I was a Shakespeare professor, and Brendel, also a serious man of letters, charmingly directed the conversation in that direction.

    The enormously talented and gracious Alfred Brendel died at age 94 in his London home on 17 June, which would have been my mother Virginia’s 102nd birthday.  This Saturday, 21 June, would have been David’s and my 30th anniversary; we married five years after what I later realized was our first date there at the Barbican 35 years ago.  The previous month I had taken myself out to the then best French restaurant in London, Tante Claire, for my 38th birthday in October, and while I’d had a splendid solo meal, I remember thinking as David insisted on escorting me back to my flat on that November night after the Brendel Brahms how nice it was to be making my way through the London streets, not alone, but beside this clever, handsome man.  At my door, I thanked David for a lovely evening.  We shook hands and parted.  But, as it happens, not for long.

    Rest in peace, Mr. Brendel.  And thanks for the memories.

  • Memorial Days

    4 June 2025

    Memorial Day at Gnawwood, 26 May 2025

    On this year’s designated Memorial Day, I rode my bike for the first time in I’m sure at least a year, enjoyed myself, and celebrated the fact that I did not fall off.  The next day, I spoke with my former acting teacher, Pete, just after his 80th birthday, and he thanked me for sending him my Shakespeare book (and for acknowledging his contributions to same; he praised his copy as looking really good—even if you didn’t read it!).  That night at the Portsmouth Library’s monthly Shakespeare discussion, I think I managed to contribute some worthwhile ideas and met three young former students of my UNH colleague Doug; all of them seemed pleased to meet me, and that felt good, too.  Such small triumphs I balance against life’s absurdities:  the Madbury tax assessor’s definition of a bathroom:  2 fixtures = a half bath; 3 fixtures = a bathroom.  When I countered that one could not take a bath in our toilet room, which has a toilet, a bidet, and a sink, he countered with “What’s a bidet?”  A bedroom, it turns out, only counts as a bedroom if it has a closet.  Oy.

    Basic communication seems increasingly problematic.  I’m still trying to make sense of an email exchange I had with a local venue about an upcoming production in which (I think?) word choice led to an off-putting misunderstanding.  And I’m not even counting the expense of time and frustration wasted when bots, phone answering systems, and online queuing land one in some infernal circle of futility. Thank goodness for the moderating influence of Nature going about her business unperturbed.

    Springtime’s wild geranium
    Visiting doe seen from the deck
    Chipmunk with aspiring mind

    But then things took a turn for the worse: this dentist’s daughter was felled by an infected crack in her second molar, and the pain med prescribed to tide me over before the antibiotic kicked in left me alternately sleeping and throwing up for the next 24 hours.  Sleep and fasting proved the only refuge from nausea until my poor body metabolized and voided the poison intended to help it.  The upside:  I lost three pounds overnight.  The downside:  I felt even less up to facing this year’s sad anniversary of my final day with my beloved husband.  On 1 June 2019, he departed our home for the last time, eighteen years from the Memorial Day weekend when we first moved into our just-built house.  A year later, 1 June 2020 marked my retirement from 43 years of teaching, an end requiring a new beginning of a different sort.  And this year, 1 June marks my late sister Jane’s son’s 27th birthday.  So much to feel in these Memorial Days.

    Being really sick, even for only a day, may have an ironically salutary upside, putting minor annoyances in perspective, however much they continue.  As I struggled to clamber up the Slough of Despond’s slippery slope, I tried diverting myself with all the best tv and film I could find:  the 2022 series Julia with its superb scripts and performances narrating the indomitable Ms. Child’s beginnings at WGBH; ALL of Mike Birbiglia’s comedy specials on Netflix; Naomi Watts, Bill Murray, and the uncannily talented Great Dane Bing in The Friend, a serious comedy about grief and what we owe each other; and the delightful if lightweight French rom com Jane Austen Wrecked My Life.

    Bill Murray and Naomi Watts in The Friend

    Happily, better help was at hand.  I had a wise and compassionate letter from my dear Americanist friend Trish, offering Ben Franklin’s allegory of the “speckled Ax,” advice about carrying on despite difficulty “obtaining good, & breaking bad Habits”—like my inertia when facing the task of a thorough, liberating weeding of possessions I don’t need or want.  “A speckled Ax is best” I understand to be Franklin’s and my friend’s version of “don’t let the perfect be the enemy of the good enough.”  Sound advice.  Even more helpful:  having the kind of friend who knows when and what kind of canny advice to offer a friend in need.

    Things ARE looking up.  My husband’s older brother Reed, like David, is a gifted writer and a perceptive, loving soul.  His consoling response to my sad letter was tonic in perceiving and acknowledging the magnitude of all I lost when David died—which ultimately, strangely celebrates what I have still, and can never lose.  Like the song says, “They can’t take that away from me.”  Good to have such a big brother.

    A visit to the endodontist helped, too—and not just because she’s a good doctor (like said big brother).  I’d not seen her for six years, when last the crack in that molar proved problematic.  And yet she recalled the trip to India I took in December of 2019, my first Christmas without David.  I suspect she keeps notes on her patients: atop her technical expertise and no-nonsense communication, Dr. Forbes is a most welcome reminder of the so important human connection in our so often inhumane era.

    On the loss of such ties that bind, I was recently struck by self-described mild-mannered David Brooks’s recent NYT op ed about what has pushed him over the edge:  Notre Dame political scientist Patrick Daneen’s Memorial Day essay in which he avers that regular soldiers fight not for ideas, abstractions, or ideals like natural rights, but instead fight only for their comrades in arms.  Brooks points out that J. D. Vance concurs, quoting Vance’s acceptance speech at the Republican National Convention:  “People will not fight for abstractions, but they will fight for their home.”  Brooks sees such statements pointing to “the moral rot at the core of Trumpism, which every day disgraces our country, which we are proud of and love.”

    I’m reminded of the one time my sweet dad, also a mild-mannered guy, confronted my then (unsuitable, though I hadn’t yet figured that out) boyfriend over the fact that he had hung his UNC-Chapel Hill diploma over the toilet.  My dad had volunteered to fight in WWII, and though his bad heart kept him out of the Army then, he was later drafted as a medical officer when I was a toddler, and for two years proudly served his country as a Captain.  A student of the Civil War and ardent admirer of “Mr. Lincoln,” my dad certainly believed in abstractions like the inherent value of education.  He just as certainly believed in dedication to the self-evident truths that established these United States.  Alas that they are no longer self evident.

    Last Sunday, I was moved to witness dedication of another sort, the dedication of artists who’ve devoted their lives to making their audience understand, collectively and powerfully, what it is to be human.  Boston Ballet’s production of Jean-Christophe Maillot’s Roméo et Juliette, staged by Noelani Pantastico, Bruno Roque, and Taisha Barton-Rowledge and danced to Prokofiev’s soaring score under conductor Mischa Santora’s direction, is heartbreakingly gorgeous, the narrative and scenic design pared down to make even more devastating that tale’s essential tragedy:  humanity’s capacity for senseless hatred destroying its future in the form of two charming, brave, exquisitely beautiful young lovers.  Maillot’s ballet tells Shakespeare’s story from Friar Laurence’s perspective, a cleric clearly tormented by Verona’s division, desperately seizing what he thinks may be a solution, and despairing when destiny intervenes.  By some strange alchemy, the collective dedication and talent of all those artists—dancers, choreographers, designers, musicians—transformed tragedy into beauty and solace—even on the sixth anniversary of my beloved husband’s departure.  Perhaps Keats’s Grecian urn is right:  beauty is truth, truth beauty.  The ballet’s truth seems to have set me free.

    Sangmin Lee and Seo Hye Han break hearts . . .
    . . . at Boston’s Opera House: architecture celebrating abstraction

    https://www.bostonballet.org/stories/romeo-et-juliette-preview/

    And now, the glorious azaleas have gone by, the rhododendrons and irises and beach roses commence their season.  And me, I take up my speckled Ax, and get back to work. And back on the bike.

    My Univega Metroprix: rolling since 1984

  • Folly Beach

    4-9 May 2025

    Folly Beach access

    With a name referencing the 17th-century meaning of “folly” (densely packed with trees and undergrowth), Folly Island’s first official mention is a land grant document from King William III to one William Rivers, dated 9 September 1696.  The island was home to members of the Bohicket tribe until the increasing number of Europeans in Charleston forced them to move elsewhere.  The City of Folly Beach is now home to 2400 residents and many visitors to this laid-back beach community, once among them George Gershwin, who composed Porgy and Bess while staying on Folly in the summer of 1934.

    Folly Beach Pier

    We had only one full day on Folly Island, but the weather complied with our plans to first visit the Morris Island Lighthouse just off the northeastern tip of the Island, the southern entrance to Charleston Harbor.  The sun was quite hot as we trekked the paved graffiti-filled path that leads to the dunes of the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve, but the first glimpse of the lighthouse inspired continuing, and was well rewarded by an uncanny seascape of trees long uprooted, bleached by the sun, and deposited at the island’s end by the ocean currents.  The lighthouse itself is, at 161 feet, the tallest in South Carolina.  Built in 1876, the tower and adjacent three-story house stood approximately 2700 feet from the water’s edge in 1880, but jetties constructed at the entrance to Charleston harbor caused a gradual erosion that displaced much of the sand on Morris Island.  By 1938, it stood at the water’s edge, and today rises alone from its own little island, 1600 feet offshore.

    Seascapes with Morris Island Lighthouse (1876)

    The seascape, reminiscent of a Waiting for Godot set, the final scene of Planet of the Apes, or some other apocalyptic vision, is what most fascinated me:  natural, evocative Atlantic sculpture.  We took lots of pictures of this tree graveyard, and then headed to Johns Island to visit Angel Oak, our second objective of the day and well worth the drive.

    Angel Oak, Johns Island, dating to ~1625

    Considered the largest live oak east of the Mississippi at an estimated 400 years old, Angel Oak stands 65 feet high with a circumference of 25.5 feet, shading an area of 17,000 square feet.  With 400,000 visitors a year, the tree gets lots of special treatment:  multiple supports for branches that graze the ground and, on the day we visited, workers aerating the soil around it to better allow water to nourish its roots.  One sign invited a gentle hug or kiss of the tree, the better to allow it to reach its possible lifespan of 900 years.  Given the prevalence of coastal hurricanes in our environmentally compromised Earth, that possibility seems unlikely.  But as one of the oldest living things in North America, predating European settlement and the founding of Charleston, this Quercus virginiana does inspire reverence—and a kiss.  And while its redoubtable age suggests the immortality of an angel, the tree is named not for those celestial denizens, but for the Angel family.  The tree stands on land originally granted to colonist Abraham Waight in 1717, whose daughter Martha married Justus Angel in 1810.  Their descendants owned the land and the Angel Oak until the mid-1900’s; the City of Charleston purchased it in 1991.

    We returned to Folly Beach just as the weather broke into a downpour, and spent a cozy hour or so having a late lunch in Coconut Joe’s.  The rain stopped conveniently as we finished our meal, allowing me a brief dip in the seaside pool, and an even briefer one in the turbulent Atlantic before we returned to Woody’s to retrieve Daniel’s sunglasses (left there the night before and happily returned to the bar by some good Samaritan), get a couple souvenir t-shirts, and enjoy some seafood and live music on the upper deck at Loggerhead’s.

    The pool At Charleston Oceanview Villas
    Ubiquitous Folly surfers, undeterred by any weather
    Swordfish and fried oysters at Loggerhead’s with Daniel and Richard

    The day concluded with a stroll to the end of Folly Pier as the sun set.

    Folly Beach Pier and sunset

    The next morning, the boys dropped me at the Vacasa office and headed back to Safety Harbor as I made my way to the Charleston airport with Uber driver Gosh, so enthusiastic about being a citizen of this country.  Mark Twain famously said “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.”  Remembering the number of signs I saw posted in Charleston area widows prohibiting concealed weapons, I wonder if travel is the cure we all need to see our situation more clearly.   That speculation and Gosh’s newly naturalized adoration of his adopted country have me still mulling over all I learned during our brief visit south.  But I’m enjoying a return to the azaleas still blazing further north, and the Eastern phoebe nest I found unexpectedly sitting in the middle of my driveway yesterday: like the Angel Oak, it’s a marvel of natural creation.  Nature always wins. I take comfort in that.

  • Ft. Sumter

    7 May 2025

    Approaching Ft. Sumter at the entrance to Charleston Harbor:
    where America’s Civil War began

    On Wednesday morning we took advantage of the Hampton Inn parking policy that allowed us to leave our car in the hotel garage until we left the Holy City for Folly Beach later in the day.  After breakfast on the patio, we walked the short distance from Meeting Street down Calhoun to the Ft. Sumter Visitor Center in Liberty Square, passing along the way the “Borough Houses.”  Built in 1852 (a century before my birth) and occupied by Irish immigrants, 35 Calhoun was purchased in 1939 by Willis Johnson, Sr., whose sons Frank and Henry built 35½ Calhoun by hand to complete their carpentry apprenticeships.  The two homes are still owned by the Johnson family, and remain the last vestige of “The Borough,” the African-American neighborhood built in 1940 for over 160 families, finally demolished in 1993 after the discovery of toxic waste deposits in the soil.  As a descendant of Irish immigrants, I asked my brother-in-law to record my tangential connection with this snippet of Black Charleston history.

    Murphy at the Borough Houses

    The exhibits at the handsome Ft. Sumter Visitor Center, including the replica gigantic garrison flag with its 33 stars once flown over the Fort, are very informative and, for me, revealing of how much our nation’s current divide reiterates tensions present from its founding.

    Liberty Square and the NPS Visitor Center, Charleston

    The closely related issues of slavery and state sovereignty were so volatile at the time of the Constitutional Convention in 1787 that any direct reference to slavery in the new document might cause a fatal rupture in the negotiations between regions and prevent a federal union.  So, Enlightenment ideals about the abolition of slavery were conveniently omitted.  To quote from one display, “The nation quickly learned that the Bill of Rights and the system of checks and balances between the branches of government did not guarantee individual liberties if one political party gained control of all three branches of government.  The 1798-1799 Virginia and Kentucky Resolutions written by James Madison and Thomas Jefferson were manifestos of a state’s right to judge the constitutionality of federal actions.  The resolutions defined the Union as a compact among the states, giving limited powers to the central government.  Arguments of a broken contract, or a failed ‘compact’ that no longer protected a state’s interests, were the basis for secession movements.”  The displays further emphasized how tariffs, intended to boost domestic industry, were seen as detrimental to Southern industry, highly dependent on agriculture and international trade, and led to the Nullification Crisis of 1832-33, when South Carolina argued it could nullify federal laws it deemed unconstitutional, including tariffs.  As Trump’s Executive Order nullifying birthright citizenship makes its way through the courts and the Supreme Court wrestles with injunctions, I’m again reminded of Harry Truman’s words:  “The only thing new in the world is the history you don’t know.”

    Carolina Gold rice, imported from West Africa and cultivated by the enslaved: primary source of Southern wealth
    A cargo ship approaches the 2005 Ravenel Bridge, 2.5 elegant miles spanning the Cooper River
    A cool place to await the Ft. Sumter ferry at the Visitor Center, complete with hilarious video about what NOT to do at the Fort
    (or, How to Achieve a Darwin Award)

    Ft. Sumter’s construction had begun with enslaved labor in 1829, an attempt to fortify Charleston Harbor after the War of 1812 with a defensive structure named after South Carolina Revolutionary War hero Thomas Sumter, a fort designed to protect the Union.  But South Carlina seceded from the Union on 20 December 1860 following Abraham Lincoln’s election as president, an act of secession soon followed by other states that led to the formation of the Confederate States of America.  At the time Union-held but strategically important to the Confederacy, South Carolina demanded the fort be surrendered.  Union commander Major Robert Anderson refused.  Lincoln then decided to resupply Ft. Sumter, an act the Confederacy viewed as a further challenge to their sovereignty.  General Beauregard of the Confederacy then sent an ultimatum to Major Anderson, demanding the Fort’s surrender.  When Anderson again refused, the first shots on the Fort were fired at 4.30 am on 12 April 1861, marking the beginning of the Civil War.

    Ranger Summer of the National Park Service pointed out that Ft. Sumter today is essentially a “stabilized ruin” of its former self:  walls that once rose 55 feet above sea level today offer a barrier of only 9-25 feet.

    Inside Sumter: the black Acrymax coating replicates the original pitch protecting the concrete structure.
    Ranger Summer, excellent National Park Service guide

    From Ranger Summer, we also learned that states added to the Union only get their star on the U.S. flag on the following Fourth of July, so Kansas, the 34th state to join the Union on 29 January 1861 was not yet represented on the garrison flag that flew over Ft. Sumter when it first received Confederate fire on 12 April 1861.  It was also Ranger Summer who pointed out the finger prints of what was likely one of the enslaved children whose comparatively “light work” was making the Fort’s bricks, nearly invisible but enduring evidence of why our country’s most costly war was fought.

    Fingerprints in the brick (second course down from the top)
    likely made by an enslaved child
    Richard and Daniel on board the returning ferry

    Ranger Summer’s characterization of Ft. Sumter as a “stabilized ruin” left me pondering the balance of stability and ruin typifying the current state of our Union.  But a tip from Bill at the Visitor Center gift shop sent us to a happily distracting treat at nearby bakery/café Saffron:  iced coffee and a slice of lemon torte sufficient to fuel navigation off the Charleston peninsula and onto our upmarket Airbnb on Folly Beach.

    Excellent pastry at Charleston’s Saffron Bakery
    Our elegant Airbnb at Charleston Oceanview Villas
    Excellent wood-fired pizza at Woody’s of Folly Beach

    A stroll on the beach and some wood-fired pizza at Woody’s on Center Street concluded our day to the lulling sound of the Atlantic waves.

    First night at Folly Beach in view of the public Pier

  • Magnolia Plantation

    6 May 2025

    Magnolia House Plantation, 1873

    On our second full day in Charleston, we set out for Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, a 30-minute drive northwest from the Charleston Visitors Center to the 390 acres of the original 1,872 along the Ashley River.  One of the oldest in the South, the plantation dates to 1679, when Thomas and Ann Drayton built the first small house and formal garden on the site.  Some of the enslaved people forced to work in the house and construct the extensive earthworks of dams and dikes in the fields along the Ashley River to irrigate the land for rice cultivation were brought by the Draytons from Barbados in the 1670’s.  Enslaved laborers also built the stately Drayton Hall (1738) on an adjoining property.  Both the original Magnolia house and the second were destroyed by fire, the latter set by Union soldiers who spared nearby Drayton Hall only because smallpox quarantine flags flew there.  The third plantation house (1873) still stands, and became known for its Romantic gardens after the Rev. John Grimké Drayton inherited the house from his elder brother in the 1840’s.

    Magnolia House garden façade
    The deepest porch ever at Magnolia House
    Surrounding Doric columns at Magnolia House
    This exhibit honors Eliza Lucas Pinckney (1722-1793), who transformed agriculture in colonial South Carolina by developing indigo as one of its major cash crops. Managing three plantations (though not Magnolia) beginning at age 16, she was responsible for 1/3 of the value of the colony’s exports.
    A young miss admires Magnolia’s delphiniums

    Designed, legend has it, to placate Drayton’s bride reluctant to leave her home in Philadelphia, the gardens currently grace 25 acres of the property, in addition to the 16 acres devoted to the wide allée of live oaks approaching the house and 150 acres for a marsh and water fowl conservancy.

    Ravenswood Lake and rookery
    Trail at the Audubon Swamp Garden

    The Swamp Garden is named for James Audubon, who like Civil War photographer Matthew Brady, once visited Magnolia.  Twentieth-century visitors included George Gershwin (who composed Porgy & Bess while staying in nearby Folly Beach), Henry Ford, and Eleanor Roosevelt; our guide was tickled to imagine Mrs. Roosevelt as a guest in a house that had no indoor plumbing.

    The most impressive aspect of Magnolia today is, however, the “Slavery to Freedom Cabin Tour,” conducted by a passionate Irishman named John. Standing before a backdrop of the five cabins on site, four built before emancipation and the last around 1900, and clearly drawing on his own people’s inheritance of oppression, John evoked not only the visceral horrors of the Middle Passage, but the back-breaking, life-threatening work of planting and tending the rice fields of the master, as well as the brutal punishments meted out to enforce compliance with the overseers’ commands.

    Oldest of the on-site slave cabins

    John spoke in the first person as one of the enslaved, then shifted to second person to further engage his rapt audience.  He demonstrated the heel-drop-toe technique of planting rice, still used today in Uganda, as he learned from a native visitor.

    Inside a slave cabin papered for insulation with reproductions of contemporary newspapers

    John told, too, of the Leach family, specifically Johnnie Leach, who lived with his family in one of the on-site slave cabins from the 1940’s until 1969.  Magnolia’s master gardener, “Mr. Johnnie” later lived in a modern dwelling at Magnolia until his death at age 93 in 2016.  His grandson Jackson Leach continues to work the gardens at Magnolia. 

    That John told the true history of Magnolia so vividly and memorably proved the most enduring takeaway from our trip.

    African American Cemetary at Magnolia Plantation
    One of the many eponymous magnolias in bloom

    It took a dip in the inviting Hampton Inn pool to accomplish the transition to that evening’s entertainment:  The Charleston RiverDogs vs. the Carolina Fireflies at “the Joe,” the Joseph P. Riley, Jr. ballpark further downstream on the Ashley River.

    Hampton Inn pool across from the Visitors Center on John Street

    The RiverDogs, a Single-A affiliate of the Tampa Bay Rays, have Bill Murray as one of the principal owners, and every first and third Tuesday night is Dog Day, when all canines are invited to attend, granting even more fun to America’s pastime.

    Richard and my very tall nephew Daniel at “the Joe”
    (Bill) Murray’s Mezzanine at the Joe

    The night was fine, the RiverDogs won, we had catfish and local Overly Friendly beer for dinner, and retired back to our Hilton happy.

    8th inning collapse after the 7th inning stretch at the Joe