Once More to the Lake

13-17 July 2026

Cottage Place Beach at Little Squam

E.B. White’s 1941 essay “Once More to the Lake” about his pilgrimage back to the lakefront resort in Maine he visited as a child is a masterpiece often taught in—or, perhaps more accurately, once often taught in—freshman English courses.  The last time I taught English 401, I was encouraged to use a collection of quite mediocre student essays as the course “text,” a baffling pedagogical development I chose to ignore, feeling as I too often did in my last few years of teaching that the time was disconcertingly out of joint.

Like White’s essay and my experience of teaching it, my recent trip to Squam Lake (of On Golden Pond fame) was haunted by nostalgia, a term coined by Swiss medical student Johannes Hofer as a translation of the German Heimweh (homesickness), a composite formed from the Greek nóstos (homecoming) and álgos (pain) to describe the profound melancholia experienced by Swiss mercenaries fighting far away from their native Alpine terrain.  The emotion is a complex one, and the word to describe it evasive, elusive, and (it seems) culturally specific.  In Turkish, the word is hüzün, a shared, quiet state of loss.  I’m partial to the Portuguese saudade, pronounced as an onomatopoetic sigh, a deep emotional state of melancholic longing, a bittersweet yearning for the absent presence of someone or something that is loved and irretrievably lost, combining the sadness of that loss with the warmth and joy of having loved.

What word best describes what is driving Matt Damon’s Odysseus in the Christopher Nolan film, as opposed to Homer’s Odyssey?  A topic for a different post.  This one is about my friend Cameron’s and my return to places we’d visited with our late husbands, hers the composer Russell Peck, whose music was often programmed for the New Hampshire Summer Music Festival held each summer at Plymouth State, and my David, classmates at the University of Michigan in the turbulent late sixties, both of them part of the avant-garde John Cage-affiliated progressive new music scene then in Ann Arbor.  Cameron and Russell spent 13 seasons around the New Hampshire lake district, and twice David and I went up—once even flew up in a doughty Piper Warrior!—to join them for concerts and long conversations had while afloat in a lake, once Squam and once Kanasatka.  Cameron had not been back for decades; neither had I—and quite possibly David and I were along on that couple’s last return to the lakes.  I can’t remember the year.

But Russell departed this dimension in 2009, as did David in 2019.  Could the wives left behind return to the lake and recapture any of that joy?  The answer:  Reader, we did. Ocular proof follows.

We arrived on 13 July, which would have been my David’s 83rd birthday
Our cabin looked out on Little Squam, cozy with just the right amount of funk
First day attraction: a visit to the remarkably informative and fun for all ages Natural Science Center. Did you know that foxes smell like skunks, or that mountain lion fur feels incredibly soft to the touch?
Resident catamount, a species now officially extinct in New Hampshire, though there are still occasional reports of unverified sightings.
Cameron the Intrepid bravely navigates her first scooter over hills and dales, courtesy of the Center.
One of the few deer who have NOT been eating my hostas
Mill Falls Marketplace in Meredith NH, home to Giuseppe’s, an excellent pizzeria
Next day’s adventure: the Natural Science Center’s Discovery cruise
Walter’s Basin restaurant, just through the channel that connects Little Squam to Squam Lake. Walter’s is named for the fish caught and released in the 1981 film On Golden Pond. We enjoyed two excellent meals there, complete with lake views.
The very marina where Katharine Hepburn as Ethel Thayer gassed up and shopped
Entering Squam Lake: picture-perfect New Hampshire
Captain Hugh on the Loon
Looking for loons while on the Loon
Approaching “Purgatory Cove,” of Golden Pond fame, suitably forbidding with strong wind chop and Canadian forest fire smoke greying the sky. Cpt. Hugh told us that the beautiful mahogany 1950 Chris-Craft Sportsman used in the film was too sturdy to break even when repeatedly run onto the rocks there. The film crew had to build a “crash replica” with a thinner hull panel that would burst on impact to scuttle the Thayer IV.
Rattlesnake Mountain. Note to self: must return to hike the famed overlook trail.
Daisies at the dock
John Davidson’s summer nightclub in the impossibly quaint Center Sandwich
The Squam River covered bridge in Ashland
The Ashland Town Beach: a rare public beach on Little Squam
A superior pre-concert dinner at Yamas Greek Eatery on Main Street in Plymouth
Musicians tune at the Silver Center for the Arts Hanaway Theater before a delightful “Italian & American Summers” program: Respighi’s Trittico botticelliano, Barber’s haunting “Knoxville: Summer of 1915” (beautifully sung by soprano Ashley Marie Robillard,) Anna Clyne’s “Restless Oceans,” and Mendelssohn’s Symphony No. 4, Op. 90, “Italian.” Cameron re-connected with principal cellist Walter Grey.
Next day’s drive took us as far north as Mt. Washington for this view of New York architect Charles Alling Gifford’s storied hotel. Built in 1902, it served the elite escaping to the White Mountains with 57 trains a day.
Old friends southward bound, about to head home

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